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ROAD LESS TRAVELLED

A heady twirl in the water

For a day's break, and a coracle ride, says W. SREELALITHA

PHOTO: K. ANANTHAN

GENTLY DOWN THE STREAM Coracles on the banks of the River Bhavani

On a balmy April morning, we set off to Baralikkadu in the Athikkadavu range. Through the long drive from Coimbatore, gossiping babblers keep us occupied. A couple of bashful jungle fowls peep out of a prickly bush inquisitively, and much to our photographer's discontent, dash off after they catch him frantically adjusting his camera lens.

Exciting all the way

Soon we reach Baralikkadu, and walk down to the River Bhavani. And, what do we find on the banks? Coracles! Looking like huge berets sunbathing, at least 10 of them rest smugly. Delirious with excitement, I hastily throw my bag aside, and run towards them.

Not fresh to such conduct, indulgent rowers stop me and hand over a lifejacket in glowing orange. I put it on, and gingerly get into a coracle that shudders fleetingly under my weight. Rama, the rower, also in a jacket, welcomes me with a knowing smile. The coracle whirls, twirls, swirls, and finally drifts rhythmically. The oar touches the water with a plop, and the two-hour ride begins.

As I look at the water in delight, the bank slowly fades. A few feet from the coracle, I discover four cormorants practising synchronised swimming. Even as a few monkeys and squirrels on trees nearby try to distract us, Rama recounts stories of leopards, elephants, spotted deer and sambar coming to the river bank for their daily fill of water. After a long while, the Pilloor Dam materialises in the distance. After this, we decide it is time to return. As Rama rows vigorously, I realise that the one most striking aspect of the coracle ride is its pastoral appeal, stark in contrast to a noisy motorboat ride in a man-made lake!

Rama continues to wax eloquent — this time about his weekly visits to the cinema and the education of the villagers, till we finally touch the riverbank. Sadly, as there are no mobile phone numbers or e-mail ids to exchange, we wave goodbye to each other!

On the bank, a group of bright and breezy women, members of the Thamarai women's self-help group in Baralikkadu, who prepare lunch for visitors, welcomes us. After a little chitchat, we head back to Coimbatore, carrying with us fine memories of a coracle ride.

How to go: Take a bus from Coimbatore at 7 a.m. to reach Baralikkadu at 9.30 a.m. To return, take a bus at either 1 p.m. or 5 p.m. from Baralikkadu. You could also drive from Coimbatore via Karamadai, Velliankadu, Athikkadavu and Mulli.

Ride: Four persons, excluding the rider, can fit into a coracle. The two-hour ride comes at Rs. 300 per person, including lunch. The ride is on weekends and public holidays. The timings are 10 a.m. to noon, and 2 p.m. to 4 p.m.

Food and activities: Chappati and curd rice for lunch. In addition, tomato rice, vegetable biryani, puri or kuska may be available. You also get cut fruits. After lunch, go trekking around the area with a guide from the Forest Department, or bathe in the river near the Athikkadavu bridge. Gear up for some quintessential tribal dance by village folk in the evening.

Reservation: Call the District Forest Office at 0422-2302925 or the Karamadai Ranger at 94433-70311 at least a day before.

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