Soak in the beauty of the Kumara Parvata, one of the highest and most scenic peaks in Karnataka, listening to the birds and watching the sunset
Located about 310 kilometres from Bangalore is Kukke Subhramanya. Cruising on the smooth roads of NH4, we divert at Nelamangla and continue on NH48 till we hit Sakleshpura. Happy times are over and the last 50 kilometres of bumpy ride till Kukke Subr
amanya takes out all energy. However, the fresh morning breeze at this bustling town is refreshing. Looking up with tired eyes thanks to the eight-hour bus journey, all I see is the sheer beauty of the mountains covered in clouds. We have a dingy room in one of the guest houses to freshen up. Some idlis for breakfast and we hit the road. Within no time we are hiking in the hills. The hike begins under a cover of thick vegetation. The climb is a little steep in the beginning, but what good is a hike if you don’t sweat a bit? An hour has passes and we are still struggling. A good view from behind six-ft tall bushes at every other corner keeps us refreshed. Covering a distance of about seven kilometres, we suddenly emerge out of the thick vegetation into a huge open space in an amazing shade of green. The grass is dancing in the breeze; a welcome breeze on my sweaty face. It is quite a treat for the eyes that are used to staring at a computer the whole day.
SPECTACULAR The climb is a little steep in the beginning but there is a thick cover of vegetation which makes it all worthwhile
We have reached the famous base camp “Bhatra Mane” (Bhat’s House). Bhat is short for Mahalingeshwara Bhat. He lives with his brother and mother-in-law. His main source of income is 20 cows, a few betel nut trees, and now tourism. He accepts any amount trekkers give him. However, Rs. 100 per person makes him pretty happy. Being a weekend, the place is packed with other trekkers. We crash at whatever place we find. Bhat’s mother-in-law, naani, as everybody calls her, is cooking sambar-rice. We camp there for the night .
We relax a little and head out to explore the surroundings. The clouds clear slowly to give a spectacular view of the never-ending layers of mountains. Engrossed in this beauty, I am in a state of sheer bliss. The sun sets in a while and we retreat to Bhat’s house. We find a place to sit among the 25 other people to make the room a little cosier. Some suggests dumb charades. Other groups join in. The laughter and giggles flows into Antakshari, where the Latas and Rafis of the group emerge. Once, the stock of songs is finished, we are off to bed. At 6.30 the next morning, we are ready to leave and naani has packed us puliyogre. We leave our rucksacks at Bhat’s house and carry on with food and water. Climbing up a few hills, we reach “Mantapa.” It is believed to be a shelter built for travellers in olden times. We stop at a water point to dig into the delicious puliyogre. A few places on this route are so arresting that my friends have to literally pull me away . Another eight kilometres and we are on Kumara Parvata. Situated at an altitude of 5,000 feet, the peak is covered in clouds. The raging winds make up for the low visibility. We celebrate the summit with leftover puliyogre and fruits. After an hour on the peak, we leisurely head back. A stop at Mantapa and we are back at Bhatra Mane by lunch, after whicheverybody heads home. I decide to stay back.
A bath in a nearby stream, a fresh set of clothes, and I am as good as new. By evening, I find myself sitting on a nearby hill writing a poem. A poem…I can’t believe it myself. There are layers and layers of blue mountains. The golden droplets of the sun’s rays filtering through the clouds are scattering all over with great elegance. The clouds are forming into all kinds of shapes as the sun sets .
Chatting with a forest guard, I realise the wild animals in the area include elephant, deer, bison and amazingly two tigers. By nightfall, I am back chatting with Bhat and learning about his family. He teaches me a few Kannada words and I throw in a little Punjabi for him. The forest guard and a few people from the nearby forest check post join for the evening tea. This is followed by a round of cards. I impress them by beating most of them. It is early to bed for an early start the next morning. It is wonderful to wake up in the lap of nature to the music of birds rather than the chattering of RJs on radio that my ears are so used to.
A morning walk is followed by a filling breakfast of dosas and a steaming cup of tea. I get a few dosas packed for the last stretch of the trek back to Kukke Subhramanya, and bid the Bhat family goodbye with a promise to return . From Kukke Subhramanya a bus takes me back to Bangalore. Here I am sitting if front of my computer trying to rejoice on those unforgettable moments.
Route: Bangalore to Nelamangla on NH4; Nelamangla-Hassan-Sakleshpura on NH 48; State Highway from Sakleshpuar to Kukke Subhramanya.
Good roads till Sakleshpura
Bumpy ride from Sakleshpura to Kukke Subhramanya (50 kms)
Nearest railhead: Mangalore (100 kms)
RUBAL WALIA
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