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Peace amidst the chatter

Catch the lion-tailed macaque families here, writes W. Sreelalitha

Photos: K. Ananthan

Into the animal kingdom Some of the residents of Anaikundhi Shola

There is something to be said about early morning treks. The sun is not out to give you an even tan. The fog shrinks visibility to a few metres. There is no breeze, but you still shiver.

A hundred different birds call, and you see none, except the boorish myna that slaughters your sleep every morning back home. I am trekking to Anaikundhi Shola to spot Lion-tailed macaques, but there is no bird or animal in sight.

No spotted deer, not even the dreary drongo. I now know from where stories on languid panthers on treetops and unconcerned tigers from camera-toting tourists emerged. Imagination!

As I continue to mumble, an emerald dove flies past, flaunting a flash of brilliance in green. In a few seconds, a couple of Indian rollers exchange pleasantries on a slender branch.

Still further, the white-breasted kingfisher does the honours. With no more birds for quite a while, the focus shifts to the Parambikulam range at a distance.

The hill is a scenic mix of opulent green and pleasing blue, with a swathe of mist sashaying over it gracefully.

Just when thoughts begin to border foolishly on the philosophical (blame it on a morning hill, green and blue, and foggy!), a barking deer peeps from a scrub nearby.

I move an inch forward, and the appalled animal darts off into the thicket. (Sigh). At least, the sightings are getting better!

After walking past hundreds of trees, I spot a huge tusker devotedly munching his breakfast. I have reached Kozhikamuthi, the elephant camp. A few more kilometres, spotting just a couple of indolent lizards, and it is, finally, the shola. I am received by a tiny fawn-coloured winged insect seated primly on a leaf.

But, where are all the macaques supposedly gibbering about on trees?

A few minutes of aimless walking, and then they show up — a couple on a treetop. They jump branches with such cunning poise, it almost seems surreptitious. Hunting for breakfast, perhaps.

The number slowly increases, as does the chatter. There are at least eight of them now, screeching at each other, and leaping across trees in a blink.

However, shy as they are, none of them even remotely considers making conversation with the awestruck guest standing right under the trees, craning her neck to watch them. One macaque climbs the tree very gingerly — a baby is clinging on to her dearly. A beautiful moment. Soon, the macaques have company — noisy Nilgiri langurs try the patience of a neighbouring tree. Amusingly, a golden oriole chooses the same tree to rest.

A grey hornbill calls from a leafless tree next to this one. All the while, butterflies in different shades flutter about merrily, and a magnificent racket-tailed drongo flies back and forth in the neighbourhood. Of course, to say nothing of the curious Indian giant squirrel making itself scarce among the langurs. It seems like the epitome of peaceful co-existence that sociologists may call ‘worthy of emulation’. If only.

After watching the entire group for a while, I start the walk back.

The sun is up, and tree pies chirp from trees. Pandaravarai range looks just like the Parambikulam — green and blue. But this time around, the mist has taken leave, and it’s the sunbeams teasing the hill.

How to go: Trek 14 km to Anaikundhi Shola at Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary in Top Slip. The sanctuary is 35 km from Pollachi.

Pay Rs. 150 to the guide for the first three hours, and Rs. 50 each for every additional hour. For permission and details, call up the Wildlife Warden of the sanctuary at 04259-225356.

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