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In the land of the Gods

OUT AND ABOUT Dharamsala, in the lap of wooded mountains, is more than just being a Buddhist hub

Faces of Dharamsala The Namgyal Monastery

Here the Gods, the godly and the dead are at peace. Dharamsala, comfortably aloof from the grime of the plains at a cool 1,250 m above sea-level and a touch away from the Himalayas, is bliss in summer.

A trip to Dharamsala was on the cards when Delhi was ravaged by the early-June heat wave. The lure of the hills was tough to resist and optimistically I even packed a couple of woollens, just in case. But up a few winding roads into Himachal Pradesh, I knew they were going to be a burden.

The sun is not too kind here either, but does not leave one hapless. There are a few musts in the itinerary: McLeodganj, monastery and Tibetan trinkets. For a novice like me, Dharamsala had meant the Lama land, where the Tibetan Buddhist head has found solace. Add to it a couple of peaks.

The Market

As Dharamsala unravels, one realises there is more to this tiny hill station, a speck on the Himalayan foothills. We stay at a private house in Metti village, barely 8 km from McLeodganj. The unanimous decision in the morning is to begin from Naddi, end point of Kangra district. We leave behind the bustling Kotwali market, vintage stone houses with slate-topped roofs, the cantonment and green, matchbox-like Army quarters. After many acute-angled turns, Naddi arrives without fanfare. Naddi is postcard stuff with endless mountains, one stacked behind another, all at your call. One can see the Dhaula Dhar range of the Himalayas here. Streaks of snow still glimmer afar even as the sun continues to blaze.

The Dal lake is the next destination. The name may sound familiar. The Dal in Dharamsala is considered sacred, and during the annual fair, devotees take a holy dip here. The beauty of this muddy lake probably lies in the row of deodars standing tall on its bank. One can also enjoy a boat ride here. But if you are looking for a quiet holiday, it’s better to keep away from the Dal.

Down the winding roads, where a wrong swerve brings traffic to a standstill, one finds haunting quiescence at the Church of St. John in the Wilderness. Built in 1852, it is one of the oldest cathedrals in North India and is the memorial of Lord Elgin, the British Viceroy who died here in 1863. The church is a striking piece of Gothic architecture, built of grey stones with arched stained-glass windows.

White lilies guard the dead at the adjoining cemetery where Lord Elgin and others rest in peace. Though tourists trickle in here too, there are quiet spots to enjoy a moment of solitude.

“Himachal Pradesh is the land of the Gods,” I remember a co-passenger remarking. A ride around Dharamsala, and you know why. There is a temple at every turn, and it is true about Bhagsuna too. The Bhagsuna waterfall is well known, but to reach there, one has to pass through narrow stretches brought alive by the trinket-teeming pavement shops. Close to it is the Shiva temple and next to it, a pool for the weary.

Then we move on to the highlight of the tour – the Namgyal monastery. Leading to the monastery are restaurants where one gets the best momo and thupka. Tibetan trinkets too lure you all the way – clothes, beaded bracelets and jewellery. Pick up a simple bead bracelet and you can take it home for Rs.100. Don’t haggle too much; it does not work here.

The lamas take over as we reach closer to the monastery. Some are deep in meditation, a few are prostrating and others are busy buying potatoes. The monastery itself looks more like another multi-storied building. After a flight of stairs, we reach the hall where rests a mammoth brass Buddha. . Time stands still here as devotees make silent prayers.

Outside, the evening air is cool and comforting. There are lawns where one can sit and enjoy the beauty of dusk. Close to the monastery is the Dalai Lama’s palace, but there is no entry. All I could manage was a peek at the winding road through the grill of the gates.

P.ANIMA

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