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On the trail of the tusker

KABINI Where elephants and tigers roam around as freely as langurs and bison, says Sabita Radhakrishna

JUMBO ATTRACTION Elephants frolicking in the Kabini waters

It took us five hours to reach Kabini by road, just in time for a sumptuous lunch laid out at the Kabini River Lodge. The Kabini river, a tributary of the Cauvery, flows through the Nagarhole National Park, encircling a patch of green jungle called K abini. This thickly wooded jungle is home to a variety of wild and avian life.

Originally the private hunting lodge of the Maharaja of Mysore, the Kabini River Lodge became the Viceregal Lodge where British Viceroys and royalty from abroad were entertained. Today, it is one of Karnataka’s best wildlife resorts, stretching over 55 acres of forest and river. The Lodge has colonial-style rooms, riverside cottages and tents with all amenities. Tariffs, which vary for Indian and foreign nationals, start at Rs. 2,500 per person per night for tents and cottages, with additional charges for luxury rooms, inclusive of wildlife tours, forest entry, elephant rides and food.

Fortified by coffee, we set off in an open jeep armed with cameras and binoculars. Our guide, naturalist Somasekhara enthralled us with stories even as his trained ears picked up footfalls of wild life. Barking deer, antelopes, sambar, and spotted deer walked gracefully across the path in herds. Some stopped and posed for the camera before leaping towards their comfort zones. The black faced langurs ran wild, swinging from tree to tree.

One of the main attractions at Kabini is the elephant, whose numbers are quite large in this sanctuary; we were certain we would get to see them sometime. There is something majestic about an elephant in the wild unlike one in harness or partial domesticity. The elephant population needs to be protected since the ecological impact of these animals is significant. They modify their habitat by converting savannah and woodlands to grasslands. They can provide water for the other species by digging water holes in dry riverbeds and the depressions created by their footprints and their bodies trap rainfall.

The gaurs or wild bison with their massive build, ventured out not in the least intimidated by the humans. Wild boar scuttled across the foliage while dingoes or wild dogs roamed in packs, running away before we could whip out our cameras. Somasekhara told us that sighting these dogs was rare.

Nearly 250 species of birds can be sighted here and there are bird watching programmes for avian enthusiasts. Kabini shelters the osprey, brown-headed fishing eagle, racket tailed drongo, while wild fowl and woodpeckers abound here. Suddenly, we heard the mating call of peacocks before they hid from us. The jeep took us to spots where private cars cannot reach and we had to literally hold on to the sides as the incline was steep. Herds of elephants peered at us through the wooded glades. We swallowed as one lone tusker approached us steadily. Thankfully, some noises from the experienced Somasekhara kept the magnificent animal at bay.

We learnt that the jungle was home to sloth bears, cobras and pythons. However, we did not come across any of them. The following morning, we set out on another safari, and this time were rewarded by rare sights, which even the forest guides say are elusive. When we went off the beaten track and retraced our steps, we winced at our bad luck as we spotted fresh pug marks. Somasekhara told us it was a tigress, and most probably the one they had not seen for a long time. The group that stayed behind for an extra day was luckier. They saw a tigress and her four cubs on the jeep route!

We decided to take a short elephant safari just for the experience and on our way back home, noticed vultures circling around. Undoubtedly, sighting a fresh kill. It was a deer, probably the one with imposing antlers, which we had spotted earlier. We felt sad at the animal’s plight. But who can question the law of the jungle?

With the excitement of a boat ride in the river, I lost my camera case, but the panorama which unfolded compensated for the loss. The coracle or a wide basket covered with animal hide at the bottom provided fun and merriment and was the best boat ride ever but the less adventurous had a choice of steam boats or paddle boats. We saw storks and cormorants and kingfishers each so colourful and beautiful to behold. A long jagged rock came to life moving slowly as he opened his mouth to grab at fish and an unsuspecting bird. It was the vicious crocodile of course. Elephants gambolled in the water with gay abandon, spraying water on each other cooling off as only they could. Two tuskers engaged in a mock battle and a little elephant suckled and curled its trunk around the mothers leg.

It was time to go back, to the campfire and the promised dinner enriched by tales of adventure and tantalising secrets which we might discover if we came again. The jungle fell silent again a silence broken by the chirping of the cicadas. As we moved on we knew that we had to visit Kabini again.

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Fact File

Temperature: Not more than 34 degrees C in summer and not below 16 degrees C in winter.

Best time to go: Between November and January

Nearest airport: Bangalore

Nearest rail junction: Mysore.

Road: 208 km SW of Bangalore- five hours

80 km from Mysore

Accommodation: Kabini River Lodge, Waterwoods, Cicada Resort (Formerly Kapila Retreat)

Can also visit: Nagarhole

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