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Here today, gone tomorrow

Ranganathittu, which was set up at the initiative of ornithologist Salim Ali, is home to over 25,000 migratory birds during the nesting season

Photo: M.A. SRIRAM

HOME, A TWIG AWAY One of the Ranganathittu visitors

The hero who catches your eye is a white feathered father-in-the-making. While the din caused by thousands of his feathered friends continues below him, the painted stork is focussed and unwavering. For reasons best known to him, he avoids the trees nearby and flies across the water to fetch twigs to build the nest, returning again and again with a leafy trophy clutched triumphantly in his beak.

Ranganathittu on a summer morning is full of whistling, twittering and activity. There is a sense of gaiety and expectancy. The dozens of species of birds gathered in this sanctuary, which is 19 km from Mysore and 125 from Bangalore, are busy with preparations to welcome their young. And never mind the boatloads of humans who are making a racket of their own and trying to spoil the fun.

The chief culprits are groups of school children who holler their way through the boat ride and ruffle your feathers with the noise; with the elders too joining in the fun.

Overlook the distractions and you can savour the joy of being at Ranganathittu, which was set up at the initiative of ornithologist Dr. Salim Ali in 1940. “He suggested to the Maharaja of Mysore that this would be the ideal spot for a sanctuary as large numbers of migratory birds come here”, a representative of the wildlife division of the Karnataka State Forest Department tells me as I wait for the boat to fill up with passengers.

Covering an area of .67 sq. km, the avian retreat, is made of clusters of islets along the Cauvery. “They were formed when a reservoir was constructed in the 1600s by Kanteerava Narasaraja Wodeyar, the then ruler of Mysore”.

Bamboo, eucalyptus, figs and acacia abound in the riverine forest area which is a short stay home for the birds and permanent home for mammals such as the mongoose, bonnet macaque, palm civet and flying fox.

We pile into the boat and set out. The boatman rows through the water steering his way carefully through the rocks and vegetation.

The air is filled with bird cries. Hundreds of long-billed birds, many donning the forever-fashionable hues of white, black and grey, and with legs long enough to walk the ramp, are perched on the clumps of the bushes and low trees.

Wide wings are outlined against the blue sky as cranes and kites, comorants and darters, swerve and then swoop into the water to net their prey.

Here and there brown shapes, which deceive you into thinking they are rocks, move — these marsh crocodiles can tear off a limb and more if you are foolish enough to trail your hand in the water.

For a minute, one wonders whether it is not foolhardy for those with no knowledge of swimming to take the ride. “The crocodiles keep the monkeys away,” says the warden, “and till now we have had no accident”. I heave a sigh of relief.

The school children have formidable rivals, I find, as the boatman steers his vessel near the far islet. The trees are covered with winged sentinels while a continuous screeching — and beseeching — comes from somewhere deep within the thick green clumps. “Those are the hatchlings crying to be fed,” the boatman points out.

The avian retreat is maintained well by the Forest Department of the State. There are neatly laid out gardens and paths. Along the paths are put up boards that provide valuable information about the water birds. Each board has a vivid illustration of the bird with details about its appearance, status and feeding habits. Purple heron, cattle egret, pied kingfisher, crimson-breasted barbet, river tern… the list is long.

A small climb and I reach the watch tower constructed by Wodeyar. A little further on is a board carrying the message of Salim Ali. It gives a tip for longevity recommending bird watching as a pastime for the retired.

“Previously the best time to visit the sanctuary was between May- November but now the birds are here almost throughout the year. Excessive rainfall however results in the Krishnarajasagar dam getting filled up. The overflow comes downstream, sweeping away the nests of tardy avian builders,” says the forester.

“During the season, the sanctuary attracts about 25,000 birds and we get two lakh tourists. Many of the birds come from Bharatpur.” “And some from Australia and Siberia?” I ask. “We don’t think so,” is the reply.

Srirangapatnam is 3 km from the sanctuary and the Brindavan Gardens, 12 km away. Kokkarabellur, a village 10 km off attracts painted storks by the thousand during the breeding season in January. Since there is hardly any accommodation in Ranganathittu, it is best to halt at Mysore or Srirangapatnam.

KAUSALYA SANTHANAM

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