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Cloudburst of colour

PHOTOS: K. Ananthan

PICTURE PERFECT Quiet flows the Papanasam and a Redvented Bulbul (Pycnontus cafer) at Narasipuram forest

A last-minute change in RLT plan: The place we decided earlier on is heaving with wild elephants, so late in the night, we zero in on Papanasam river.

We are warned there could be rain, but when we begin the drive, the sun burns bright. However, in a few minutes, it vanishes. And an endless stretch of the Western Ghats meets our eye. To our right is Marudamalai, all of green under a grey sky, threatening to pour at the prick of a pin, and to the left, the distant Vellingiri, under a blue sky with white cotton-wool clouds.

As we get closer to our destination, we see doodles in silver on Vellingiri: waterfalls. It is one of those squiggly lines we are headed to! After driving past many small villages and inquisitive uniform-clad children, we reach the forester’s office.

Accompanied by forester K. Doraiswamy and watcher M. Dhanasekaran, we continue the drive. A drizzle joins us. The watcher informs us that the vehicle cannot continue after a point, as the stretch is slushy because of the incessant rain. Sure enough, the two-km drive becomes long-winded as the driver manoeuvres cesspools and damp red soil. So, we decide to get off and walk. Actually, totter.

The forester tells us that the place is home to the common langur, Nilgiri langur, panther, tiger, bear, elephants, wild dog, sambhar and spotted deer. We see none except a grazing cow.

After crossing a couple of rivulets and a handful of tribal mud houses, we finally hear the whisper of the river in the distance. Joined now by a couple of chivalrous, sickle-wielding tribal youth, we venture half-a-km into the forest.

To a mind fed on Indian movies, a damp, dense forest means surprises from slothful pythons and slinging snakes. But, all we get are glimpses of green worms, lady birds and mean-looking red ants. Closer to the river, we find a creeper (on dattikkodi) bearing extraordinarily huge green pods.

The river, at last. Rushing ferociously, Papanasam gushes down dark rocks. Crystal clear and ice cold, the water stuns you with its sheer force at some stretches and absolute calm in others.

After splashing about in the water for a while, its time to lunch, and pack off. On our way back, we stop at a mud house, and down warm milk. The forester tells us we should have visited the place between December and May, when there’s no rain. Turning around, we see the white ribbon (waterfall) gradually fading behind a mist. Who’s complaining of a two-km walk in rain?

How to go: The Papanasam river flows through Narasipuram, 30 km from Coimbatore. For details, call the District Forest Office at 0422-2302925.

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