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Sheets of water

Photos: K. Ananthan

Drink in the view The Chithiraichavadi dam and a dazzling blue kingfisher

Some years ago, my idea of an RLT was a destination cut off from the madding crowd. Read, no buses, bad or no roads, and no tea shops. But, over the years, Coimbatore and its surroundings have thrown up ‘picture perfect’ RLTs, pockets of calm in the midst of national highways and bustling towns. Such as Chithiraichavadi.

It comes with so many advantages that I am at a loss as to where to start. For one, it has a proper bus service, and a bus stop just outside the clearing that leads to the 800-year-old water body. It is not too far off from the city either. And, finally, despite the first two reasons, people don’t seem to have discovered this scenic spot. So, it remains pristine.

You can still see fish leaping out of the water, in an attempt to escape the free fall into a canal; dazzling blue kingfishers waiting patiently for their catch; and bite-sized sprats holding on to dear life as a fresh burst of water threatens to render them homeless. Mercifully, no plastic bags, crushed bottles or remnants left behind by irresponsible tourists.

So, what is Chithiraichavadi? This is the first check dam in the unique Noyyal water system, put in place by kings who ruled this region. The system has helped nourish generations of people in this region. The water level was raised by building a check dam, and the excess water drained into a canal. The shutters nearby feed the seven tanks that fall under Chithiraichavadi.

The water falls across five levels before entering a wide canal that runs almost 12 km. At each level, the force and the fall is different. If the first level is more placid and soothing, level two is a torrent in comparison. Both are perfect for a languorous dip in the chill waters. And, the sight of so much water renders everyone a child. From level three, the depth increases. So, be safe and enjoy it from a distance.

A century-old Public Works Department bungalow, now unused, stands nearby. There’s nothing much to do here. So, stand back, and take in the view of the grey-blue Western Ghats that form a perfect backdrop for the glistening water body. The recently desilted canal is flanked by coconut and banana groves. Ananthan goes click-click, and is distracted by a couple of kingfishers who tease him into focussing on them. They scoot the minute he obliges.

A kalvettu (stone engraving) in the famous Perur Patteswarar temple talks about check dams in the Noyyal, of which Chithiraichavadi is one. Locals, who have been frequenting the place since they were kids, say it has never run dry f or many, many decades. Legend has it that the check dam was built in such a manner that the water reached even those who lived at the very end of the system.

And, while it is mostly a thing of beauty today, it will be prudent to remember the original cause for which it was built — facilitating agriculture. What conservationists working to preserve it want is that people who come here appreciate its beauty, take back memories, and leave behind nothing that would mar it.

How to go

The check dam is 200 mts from the Siruvani Main Road. If you are taking a bus, alight at the Ramakrishna Vivekananda Ashram or SPIC stops. Chithiraichavadi is 16 km from Coimbatore. If you are driving, take a right soon after the SPIC stop. A bright stone sign on the road leads you to Chithiraichavadi.

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