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Adventure unlimited The majestic Himalayas in all its glory

Exploring the grandeur of The Himalayas through a trek has been one of my most exhilarating and awe-inspiring experiences. Recently , five of us, all women from Bangalore traversed through the Hampta pass, which links the Kullu valley to the Lahaul v alley in the mid Himalayan range.

The starting point of our trek was Prini (1950m), 20-minute drive from Manali. But for some distasteful muck caused by a hydroelectric project, our first day’s hike took us through an incredible forest of Bhojpatra, oak, chestnut, pine and deodars. We enjoyed beautiful views of Manali and the ridges of the mighty Bhara Bhangal. Bhojpatra, with its many layers can be used to write letters, and legend goes that Sita used these leaves to write to Rama.

The gurgling of the streams, the cool breeze, the Gaddi shepherds with their flocks of alpine sheep were enchanting! Our waterproof hiking shoes confidently crossed many of the meandering streams and we descended to the Hampta River, which we forded gingerly on a wooden log! At about 5 p.m., we reached Jabadi, a lovely campsite along the Hampta River, and pitched our tents there. The next day we trekked along the ridges of tree lines, and made our way into meadows with a hundred side streams chiselling their way around. The lush mountain greenery, the rolling fog, gigantic peaks, subtle fragrances and sounds wove their magic on us. Nature was at its magnificent best!

As we gained altitude, we left the thick wooded area, and the verdant meadows behind and climbed onto a more rocky terrain. One more river crossing and we ascended to ‘Valu ka Ghare’ (3700mt.), which is the base of the Hampta pass. The campsite was beautiful with streams and waterfalls all around. Dinner rejuvenated us, and we set the stage for a Bhangra jig with snow-covered peaks in the backdrop, and the moon, our special guest, appearing on and off from behind the clouds. Then we slept, with the mountains, the mist, holy waters, sky and the sleeping bag wrapped around us.

Since two long days of climbing and thinner mountain air had taken its toll, we decided to rest the next day. This was the day to truly soak in the ambience. There is no doubt – mountain is king here. Brimming with sheer diversity, these stunning carvings of Nature are revealing yet mysterious, predictable? Not for a second! As if on a cue, every time we cheered a blue patch of sky, the fog would promptly march in!

Luckily for us, the weather the next day was clear; as this was the day we were to cross the pass. Though it was demanding at times, with steep climbs over scree slopes, boulder fields and glaciers to cross, the pass was not as difficult to traverse as I’d imagined it to be. Finally, we were on top (4270mt.), one among the clouds, above forests and seas — where eagles fly. We relaxed and cheered with champagne on our minds. This was the point connecting the sweeping ranges of the Kullu with the Lahaul valleys where, early traders, geologists and more recently, adventure seekers, had treaded. The views of the Indrasan peak and Deo Tibba towering above the clouds were spectacular. A steep descent on snow trails brought us to Siliguri, our camp spot on the banks of river Indrasan for the day of success!

Success burst its cloud and it rained on us that night, as we huddled in the tent playing ‘dumb charades’, and the rain that started did not let up for two days after. We had to cross the Indrasan river to get to Chatru, our trail-end. Since we overlooked the snowbridge across the river, we skirted the regular trail and chose a formidable cliff route. Here we met the powerful Chandra River, coursing its way towards Pakistan. Our climb over the slippery boulders and cliffs with the Chandra beneath was treacherous to say the least. A dangerous slip while manoeuvring a large, steep boulder almost landed me in the Chandra. The combination of extreme thrill and mortal fear made my knees go weak. There was no question of rest as the steady rain pressed us on. Just when I thought the fatal exposure was over, we came across a large patch of frozen snow sloping again into the Chandra — we were at the mercy of the mountains. I made the guide hold my hand to cross this, I slipped, he slipped, we both slipped, but somehow made it to the other end; and by then I had arrived at my vertical limit! Thanking my stars that I had not been chilled and delivered to Pakistan, I stumbled into the Chandra Dhaba in Chatru soaked to the bones. Night fell, it snowed, rain did not let up, and roads on either side were blocked. The mountain law derailed our original plans of travelling to Chandratal and Kaza, and we headed back home to Bangalore, cutting short our trip, but not without some unforgettable memories. Back home in Bangalore, the rhythm of the mountains beckons once again.

PS: Three essentials for a good trek: good gear, good guide and a good mental make up.

MEERA SHASHIDHARA

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