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History in a nutshell

Traditional Grandeur (From left) Ali Ghapu Palace and Jam-e-Abbasi Mosque, (bottom) Church Vank

You can imagine the beauty of Isfahan by the fact that it is often described as “Isfahan nesf-e-jahan” (“Isfahan is half the world”). Isfahan boasts some of the finest monuments and structures. These grand monuments transport you to past era.

Literature on Isfahan reveals that this city’s “golden age” began in 1598, when Shah Abbas (1588-1629 AD) made it his capital and built several monuments, which stand even to this day. Some of these 17th Century monuments are the Imam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Chehel Sotun Palace and Maidan-e-Imam.

It is said that Maidan-e-Imam is one of the largest town squares in the world. It is difficult to describe how well preserved its traditional architecture is! As we travelled from Tehran towards Isfahan we didn’t know what was in store for us. Isfahan lies 490km south of Tehran and 500km north of Shiraz. It was towards late evening that our coach entered the city. And though tired, our hosts insisted that before retiring we must have a look at the city centre called the Imam Square or the Naqsh-e-Jahan Square. Once we reached the square we didn’t want to call it a day. Though it was late evening, there was much vibrancy. Shops were spread out along the square in the traditional bazaar pattern, with a vast green stretch in the middle. Parked along the sides were horse carriages. The locals and tourists were shopping or simply taking a stroll. Families were seen picnicking or just having a chat. We walked around, fascinated by the historic structures standing tall around the square. The parks, gardens and green stretches appeared spruced up and amidst them were traces of the grandeur of the past. The intricate inlay work in historic structures such as the Chehel Sotun Palace left us awestruck. And the best aspect is that it is so well-maintained, it looks like it has been erected just yesterday. At the Chehel Sotun Palace one wondered how the craftsmen could erect those massive pillars and ensure that their reflection falls on the water stretch.

In the bazaars one could find all things traditional — from rugs to handicrafts and silverware.

You can spend weeks in this city for there is so much to see and wonder at, like the 17 townships, which are part of the Isfahan Province.

Going through the book, “Iran – Land and People” ( Yassavoli Publications , Tehran) one learns of the city’s history. “When it was known as Aspadana, it was part of the ancient Asian country of Media. In the middle of the 7th Century, this city was occupied by the invading Arabs. The Seljuq Turks occupied Isfahan and made it their empire in 1051. Timur (Tamerlane), the Turkic conqueror, captured the city in 1387, during his invasion of Iran…” Not just mosques in plenty, there’s the Vank Cathedral — “the historic focal point of the Armenian church in Iran” — a beautifully constructed cathedral with a long history. To quote from the book: “The forced migration of Armenians… especially from the city of Julfa, to Isfahan, Iran was implemented during the reign of Safavid ruler Shah Abbas I in 1604-1605. After the Armenians settled in the southern bank of Zayandeh Roud River they named the area New Julfa (Nor Jugha). Numerous religious, scientific and cultural buildings were constructed by them …”

A trip to any country or a city cannot be called a ‘happy trip’ if there’s no warmth. Iranians are not only hospitable, they reach out to you, in spite of the language barrier. One had heard much of the traditional sweetmeat of Isfahan, called gaz. It is made with lots of nuts, especially pistachios. Sweetmeats, cakes and snacks were laid out wherever we went for chai, as though it were part of the traditional Iranian hospitality. Needless to add, it’s t he warmth of the people which adds to the beauty of the place. And Isfahan laid out plenty of both.

How to reach

Isfahan is 490 km south of Tehran and 500 km north of Shiraz. It is well connected both by road and air.

Must-see

Imam Mosque, Sheikh Lotfollah Mosque, Chehel Sotun Palace, Maidan-e-Imam and Vank Cathedral

Interesting fact

Maidan-e-Imam is considered one of the largest town squares in the world

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