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In the Nature’s lap One of the cottages at The Chalets in Naldhera

“I am Dharmpal,” he introduces himself, setting in motion a chain that is to last for the next four days. As we reach greater heights, it gets cooler. There are rugged hills on the left, and lush forests on the other. The FM radio in the car is a bit of a nuisance with the jockey’s irritating mix of Hindi-Punjabi and English. You see, one does not come from the heat and dust of Delhi to listen to this non-stop nonsense. So, the radio goes into an off-mode and the date with nature continues. As we drive across Solan, then Shimla, watching men in colourful woollens, women with a scarf over their head, it is a world removed from Delhi where economy of dress seems to be the new fashion statement. It is old times still in this part of the world. Thank God! There are rain shelters too, covered from three sides. So thoughtful of the government!

What is missing is the mad, mad traffic. Those blaring horns preceded, accompanied and succeeded by choicest expletives. The only sign that the rest of India is creeping in here too are a signboard at a salon which offers ‘Dhoni hairstyle’ to young men. And another that sells ‘Himesh Reshammiya caps’ by playing the nasal singer’s songs! As we drive past the Mall Road, the realisation hits home: we are actually getting to a part of Himachal Pradesh where faith still reigns supreme. During the day, the locals do not bolt their doors, and girls feel safe walking on the narrow roads, which reach up to a height of 2100 metres above sea level at Naldehra. Some big five-star hotel chains are beginning to make their presence felt in the lead-up area. Better to ignore all that and concentrate on The Chalets, just about an hour from Shimla, a little nest where each cottage lives up to its name. The dictionary informs us, “chalet is a wooden dwelling with a sloping roof and overhanging eaves, common in Switzerland”. Well, we are not in Switzerland but in village Durgapur where the anonymity of yesterday blends with the face of tomorrow.

Some 20-odd dwellings dot the green landscape of The Chalets. Each is made of pinewood from Finland. Each slant-roofed cottage has a kitchenette and a dining table that makes a visit to the in-house restaurant a luxury to be avoided. My room has a nice blend of the woods and the mountains. One window opens onto a forest where timeless deodar trees seem to stand witness to many arrivals and departures. The other window opens towards the mountains. And a local hand helpfully adds, “Himalayas are not too far.” I allow him a dash of exaggeration. It is no time to argue about geography, or even research the flora and fauna of the place.

Here I have come to unwind, to take a break from the rough and tumble of everyday life in a metropolis, to tell myself that I am as much nature’s creation as anybody else. That I can just collapse in nature’s arms without looking at the watch ticking away. The weather at this time of year is pleasantly cool, good enough for a cotton shirt during the day, topped up with a jacket in the evening. In the morning the birds chirp away at the eaves. During the day, I can hear more of the same in the forest which starts just a few steps from the luxury resort. Incidentally, the resort is bigger and better than it was when I last came in a couple of years ago: there is a cycling rink, there is a swimming pool and a playroom where men get to show off their table tennis skills with their kids in single digit years. And a massage room offering panchkarma relaxation, a room where inhibitions go out of the window as a helpful masseur gets down to work.

But hey, step out of the cottage. Step beyond the well-paved ways with marble at your feet. Step out of the resort, go horse riding into the forest that leads you to the 18-hole golf course. Here the guides start their familiar story: “Sir, Danny came here for a television programme shooting.” He is referring to some tele-serial Danny Denzongpa shot for many years ago. Just outside the golf course, after riding across a narrow path flanked by deodar trees, the man adds, “Look at these trees. See that love sign that is now partially faded? It was used in Pyar Jhukta Nahin…” He wants to go on. But the sun is about to set, so I ask him to save that tale for another day.

Back at the resort, plans are made for either a quick trip to Kufri or Tattapani the following morning. Not wanting to take on the horses of tourists after being ensconced in the complete privacy of The Chalets, I opt for Tattapani, warmer but also less frequented. A bit of river rafting, a dash of magical healing touch of its waters is any day better than listening to the tales of Mr So and So telling his Mrs and Bittu to wrap themselves in woollens even as he digs into an ice cream at Kufri!

Back at the resort, what do I do? No newspaper in the room, the cable of the television has been disconnected on request too. Yes, I am away from the world. Doing nothing. Pampering myself with solitude. That is what I had come here for. Do nothing. Just listen to the birds, watch the clouds fly by. Feel the fallen leaves under my feet, even soak in the joy of silence.

And when the hunger pangs come over me and I feel too lazy to prepare a cup of tea in the room, I step out to the restaurant. A few steps down, it is tastefully done in a mix of white and grey. A huge glass window would probably add to the joy when snow makes an appearance here, I think. Inside, amidst all the luxury meals on offer, including chicken tandoor, stew, kabab, dal makhni, Chinese and Continental fare, there is one thing that catches my attention. There is a song being played ever so gently. “Nothing’s gonna change my love for you…” I find my partner clasping my hand, the waiter giving me a smile. It is yesterday once more.

To find out about The Chalets, check out the website www.chaletsnaldehra.com or email contact@chaletsnaldehra.com

Naldehra is a little more than 20 kms from Shimla, about an hour by road from the Himachal Pradesh Capital.

By air: The nearest airport is 40 km away at Shimla. The Chandigarh airport is 140 km away.

By rail: Pretty well connected with trains like Kalka Mail and Shatabdi Express from New Delhi. A little over three hours by road from Kalka railway station. There is also narrow gauge railhead at Shimla, some 20 km away.

The best season to visit is the summer break of May-July.

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