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Why Paro won’t ditch you!
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Travel Looking for tranquillity next door? Visit Paro in Bhutan, suggests Koko Singh
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Sheer Beauty The dzongs of Bhutan
The months of October and November are an ideal time to visit Bhutan, our beautiful and pristine neighbour. With azure blue skies, magnificent snow views, crisp mountain air and a remarkably well preserved Buddhist culture this is the place for a dre
am holiday!
The Bhutanese are one of the most friendly and hospitable people you will encounter anywhere on this planet and will make you feel very welcome!
With the only airport in the country located at Paro, one would naturally expect it to be a somewhat bustling township.
Fortunately nothing could be farther from the truth — the ‘town’ of Paro consists of less than 3000 souls! The market centre was built as recently as 1985 and stretches for about 500m. Currently there is a lot of construction activity going on but since all buildings have to follow the traditional Bhutanese architecture, there is a symmetry and harmony maintained.
This is as ‘down town’ as Paro gets and the rest of the region is charmingly rustic and tranquil. The willow-lined roads cut through cultivated fields tended by sturdy hard working farm folk with their colourful clothes and ready smiles. Roughly in the centre of the valley lies the Paro Dzong (castle) — an awesome and impressive introduction to the world of dzongs that lies ahead!
The dzong
Magnificent even by today’s standards, the construction of this grand building commenced in 1644 and the dzong was consecrated in 1646. Being strategically located to thwart Tibetan incursions into the rest of the country as well as to protect the valley’s inhabitants, this dzong became one of Bhutan’s strongest and most important fortresses.
The courtyard (dochey), that you enter is actually at the third level of this massive structure and has two interesting figures on either side of the entrance — a Mongol holding a tiger on a leash and a man holding a black yak. The central tower (utse) is an imposing five-storey high structure that is adorned with fine woodwork and regarded as one of the best in the country.
A flight of stone steps leads down to the monks’ quarters where nearly two hundred monks reside. The Kunrey is a large hall where they study and eat and its external walls are decorated with numerous instructive and finely executed paintings. The dzong is also the locale for the spectacular tsechu (festival) held in March.
Coming down from the dzong, across the road, you will see a group of five large and very impressive Bhutanese chortens midst a copse of willow trees. These were built in memory of the first King Ugyen Wangchuck and you often spot devotees here, turning prayer wheels and silently mouthing their prayers.
Extraordinary collection
Your next stop can be the Dungtse Lhakhang which is possibly the only ancient temple built in the shape of a chorten (stupa) and is literally chained down since local belief holds that it will otherwise fly off to heaven!
The paintings within were restored in the 18th century and are possibly the most extraordinary collection in all of Bhutan.
The road then continues up another 5km or so till you reach the Ta (watchtower) Dzong that lies above Paro Dzong and dates back to around 1650. It is a circular shaped building that lay in a state of disrepair till 1965 when the third monarch decided to establish the National Museum here. This is now a repository of not only precious works of art but also costumes, armour and other hand crafted objects of daily life that provide a good snapshot of the rich cultural traditions of the country.
Another port of call is the historic Kyichu Lhakhang which lies around 5 km out of town.
This lhakhang has twin temples that stand together in a low-walled courtyard; the two are almost identical to look at but built thirteen centuries apart!
The first and older temple, as well as the Jambay Lhakhang in Bumthang, are believed to have been built as early as the 7th Century and are venerated as the first outposts of Buddhism in Bhutan.
The walls of the small courtyard leading to the temples are adorned with paintings of the Kings of the Four Cardinal Directions and other protecting deities.
The older temple is held in great reverence and carries depictions of the twelve acts of Buddha, his previous lives as also murals of the first sixteen disciples (arhats).
The new temple is dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava and the secret teachings (imparted only to his closest disciples), which make up the basic tenets of the Nyingma sect.
Paro is also the base for an excursion to Taktsang Monastery which is one of the most revered monasteries in the Buddhist world.
GETTING THERE
Draw up a tentative itinerary and select your hotels.
Contact a travel agent to make hotel bookings, organise a vehicle and driver-cum-guide and also obtain the necessary permissions required to visit places of historical and religious interest. ( www.abto.org.bt, www.tourism.gov.bt )
Contact the Druk Air GSA (Stone Travels P:26193917/18) and book your flight which offers you the most amazing aerial views of Mt. Everest, Makalu, Kanchendzonga, Jhomolhari and many others.
Pack your bags so you can clothe yourself in layers. Make sure you pack some woollies too - and now you’re well and truly set to take off to what is described as the last ’Shangri La’
BOARD AND LODGE
Luxury stay: Uma Paro, Aman Resorts and Zhiwa Ling Deluxe: Olathang, Gantey Palace, Kichu Resorts
Budget stay: Jigmeling, Samdencholing Paro has a wide range of restaurants of which Chharo and Dagmar offer traditional Bhutanese food.
Uma Paro and Zhiwa Ling offer multi-cuisine options while Red Rice has an interesting menu of fusion food.
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