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PLEATED DELIGHT Rani Mukherjee sports the style in Laaga Chunari Mein Daag

For all who can drag their eyes from the breath-taking frames of “Laaga Chunari Mein Daag”, there is the lovely Rani Mukherjee sporting Patiala salwars which is all set to become the flavour of the seaon. “Due to its high popularity in the country, this ensemble will always be in vogue irrespective of season and occasion,” says Suraj Chawla, Bangalore-based fashion designer.

“Generally the Patiala salwar refer to loose baggy pants which are pleated at the waist and the bottom are really loose, to give the fall. The pleats run vertically from the top and are sewn into the hem at the ankle. The more the pleats on the salwar the more stylish it looks,” describes the fashion guru.

Going back to history, this traditional ensemble originated from the Patiala royalty in Punjab.

They were initially stitched for the Maharanis by two very special tailors Sardar Santok Singh and Pritam Singh. They borrowed the pleats and the belt from British skirts and used it in their salwars.

Designers have come up with more innovative styles, designs and patterns. Keeping different body types in mind, Sooraj Chawla advises women who are tall and slim to dress in a regular Patiala salwar as it adds volume on the hips, making the person look shorter.

This style will require three metres of fabric. There is also the dhoti Patiala salwar, which will require four metres of fabric. This style is very similar to a Patiala salwar, except it has more pleats and falls like a dhoti. The bottom for this is comparatively narrower. The preferred fabrics for this fashion are printed crepes or mul.

Shorter women can opt for a basic Patiala salwar which has a lesser number of pleats. This style requires three metres of fabric. A semi-Patiala can be made in 2.5 metres. Another option for shorter people is the is the Pakistani salwar, which has a lot of variation. One of the styles features a narrow salwar with minimal pleats looking very close to straight trousers.

Those with a taste for drama can go in for the balloon salwar, which is also called Arabian or harem pants. The difference here is that the pleats are the same, but are gathered at the ankles to give a balloon-like fall. The balloon salwar is really popular among teenagers as these can be teamed with a knee-length kameez, a mid length tunic, a kurti or top. They are also made of different fabrics including knits in various prints.Earlier Patiala salwars were mainly in flowing, paisley prints. Nowadays, however, people experiment with fabric — from plain fabrics, to block printed designs, geometric prints in vibrant colours — all are a great hit this season.

“A few styles must be kept in mind while dressing traditionally. A complete no-no with a Patiala are kurtas with an empire cut, strappy kurtas or kurtas that give an off shoulder look. These styles of kurtas go best with the balloon salwars or the harem pant style salwars. If you want to add colour and glamour to the fabric, patch work with lace, silk ponchos with embroidery; crochet borders and patches on the salwar, can create a new dimension,” recommends Chawla.

Since a Patiala is a part of a very traditional Indian outfit, it looks complete with a dupatta, stole or a scarf. One should avoid wearing flat chappals or jootis as it cuts off the height.

LATIKA R. CHUGANEY

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