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PLEATED DELIGHT Rani Mukherjee wears Patiala salwars in “Laaga Chunari Mein Daag”

“This ensemble has always been in vogue irrespective of season and occasion,” says Suraj Chawla, Bangalore-based fashion designer. “The Patiala salwar refers to loose, pleated pyjamas.The pleats are gathered and stitched up at the waist. The pleats run vertically from the top to below and are sewn into the hem at the ankle. The more the pleats on the salwar, the more stylish it looks,” describes Chawla.

This style is famous among the Punjabis and is an attractive version of the regular salwar-kurta. This salwar style goes well with a knee-length kurta/kameez, which is printed in the same fabric or in a contrasting colour.This traditional ensemble has an interesting history. It is said to have originated from the Patiala royalty belonging to the state of Punjab. The royalty had two specially commissioned tailors — Sardar Santok Singh and Pritam Singh — who had originally designed the Patiala salwars. They borrowed the pleats and belt pattern from the English skirts. Since then this pyjama went by the name of its state of origin and was a favourite with the Maharajas and Maharanis.

Today, this traditional dress has given fashion designers a lot of scope for innovation. Keeping different body frames in mind, designers advice women who are too tall and thin to wear a regular Patiala salwar as it adds volume to the hips, thus making them look shapely and shorter. Similarly, the dress can be modified for short and plump women with less number of pleats. Another option for shorter people is the is the Pakistani salwar, which has a lot of variation — the most common is a narrow salwar with minimal pleats. It looks like trousers.

The Patiala salwar generally requires three metres (for medium height). But the ones with less number of pleats need 2.5 metres. There is also the dhoti Patiala salwar, which requires four metres of fabric. The dhoti style is very similar to a Patiala salwar, except that it has more number of pleats. It looks like the typical Indian dhoti. The poncha (at the feet) of the dhoti salwar is comparatively narrower than that of other salwars. The preferred fabrics for Patiala salwars are printed crepes or mul.

Those with a taste for drama can go in for the balloon salwar, which is also called Arabian or harem pants. Here the pleats are gathered at the waist as in Patiala salwar and at the ankles to give a balloon-like look. These salwars are also made of different fabrics including knits in various prints and can be teamed with short and stylish tops and tunics to give it a more western look.

Earlier, Patiala salwars were mainly in flowing, paisley prints. Nowadays, people experiment with fabric — from plain to block printed and geometric prints in vibrant colours.

A few things must be kept in mind while dressing traditionally. A complete no-no with a Patiala are kurtas with an empire cut, strappy kurtas or kurtas that give an off shoulder look. If you want to add colour and glamour to the fabric, patch work with lace, silk ponchas with embroidery; crochet borders and patches on the salwar can lend a new dimension, to this outfit. A Patiala suit looks complete with a dupatta or a stole. One should avoid wearing flat chappals or jootis. A heeled footwear will give a better fall to the salwar. Traditional Indian jewellery goes well with this ensemble.

So, this festive season look your ethnic best.

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