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In meditative mode
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A majestic temple in a picture perfect setting
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Photo: Soma Basu
Silence reigns The ancient temple
Temples today are surrounded by concrete structures. But there was a time when places of worship and Nature co-existed beautifully. A fine example is Thiruvattar, a quaint little place located on the National Highway between Kanyakumari and Thiruvana
nthapuram. Nestled amidst shady groves and plantations, Thiruvattar initially appears like a village on a holiday. Clean and narrow, freshly laid cemented roads, devoid of any human or vehicular movement lead me to the village, essentially a pilgrim centre. Soon I hear some shlokas and realise I am by the side of Sri Adikesavaperumal Temple, one of the 108 divyadesams of Lord Vishnu, built about ten Centuries ago. But it is the picture perfect setting of the shrine that grows on me. It is surrounded by three rivers, namely the Kothai, Pahrali and Thamirabarani. Constructed on an elevated platform, the temple looks like an impregnable fortress. One has to undertake a downward spiralling trek to reach the rivers. The rains make the track slippery. The unpolluted breeze refreshes me as I head straight to touch the cool still waters of Thambiraparani. The banana plantations in the foreground lend a green touch to the landscape. Colourful butterflies hover around. There is absolute silence.
I walk back to the temple that has several inscriptions dating back to the period of Rajendra Chola in the early 11th Century. Built in Kerala style of architecture, the temple was known for its murals though most of them have faded.
A river that runs by it
There are very few devotees inside. One of the priests tells me that everyday the rays of setting sun illuminate the face of the deity. Every third and fourth day in the Tamil month of Purattasi and third to eighth day of Panguni, the sun rays fall on the feet of the deity.
This temple is noteworthy for its size too, encompassing, as it does, a thousand-pillared mandapam that runs around the sanctum sanctorum. The inner circle has 250 pillars each carrying sculpted images of Deepaklakshmi, none resembling the other. The presiding deity is in an imposing reclining posture and can be viewed through three openings in the sanctum sanctorum, unlike in other temples.
How to reach: Thiruvattar is six km from Marthandam, 10 km from Padmanabhapuram Palace, 30 km from Nagercoil and 45 km from Thiruvananthapuram.
SOMA BASU
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