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Jawahar in Karim land
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Nostalgia takes Rahul Verma to Al-Jawahar and he returns humming
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I love this time of the year. There is a whiff of a cold breeze in the evenings, and I find myself more energetic than ever before. The tummy grumbles encouragingly every now and then, prodding me to make some trips that I’d put off in the summ
er months. I go looking for something good to eat – and come back with happy results. Last week, when Eid was round the corner, I decided that it was time I visited some of my old haunts in the Walled City. There was a time when Old Delhi was famous for three of its restaurants – Karim, Flora and Jawahar. People had their favourites, but most serious foodies thought that Jawahar served the best food. I have always been a staunch supporter of Jawahar, and have spent some great times there with a plate of mutton korma and some khamiri rotis. Even now, most people tend to associate the region with Karim’s. But while the Karim burra kabab is something that still makes my mouth water, I have always found Jawahar’s food that much tastier. And this is one of the places where you get paya – trotters – and nahari for breakfast. The Jawahar family has now split, and the two restaurants – Jawahar and Al-Jawahar – are both doing good business.
Squeaky clean
For old times’ sake, I went to Al-Jawahar, which is right there near Matia Mahal, a few steps before Karim’s. The place has expanded quite a bit. It’s well lit, and as squeaky clean as a restaurant can be. Feeling happily nostalgic, Icarried on a conversation with the owner, who is the president of the market association on food and related matters. All around me, people were breaking their fasts for the day, and quite a few of them were settling down for a good meal at Al-Jawahar’s before setting off for home for another day’s fast. The place was humming with activity, and I could get the wonderful aroma of mutton korma emanating from the kitchen. I asked for a plate of mutton stew – or ishtoo, as the locals call it.
The stew had its share of spices, but was in light, even sweetish gravy, not reeking of oil or fried masalas. Al-Jawahar’s Aloo ghosht – meat cooked with potatoes – is quite a favourite of mine, too. A full plate of mutton stew is for Rs.95, and a half plate for Rs.50.
The usual mutton korma is for Rs.95 a plate, but the safed korma – cooked without fried onions, but in a smooth paste of nuts – is for Rs.160.The regular biryanis are there (chicken, Rs.150 a full plate, and mutton, Rs.100), but they have an additional mutton achar biryani andchicken achar biryani (Rs.110 and Rs.140 respectively). The nahari and paya are for Rs.80 for a full plate.
All in all, I had a nice time at Al-Jawahar’s. It opened up the floodgates of memory, and what was great was the fact that the food was still good. Al-Jawahar has not let down its band of old supporters.
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