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Light and airy The Grand Ashok’s Mediterranean flavours are rich in flavour but light on the oils and fats

And so, Chef Nimish Bhatia has thrown together a selection of Mediterranean grills with a frugal but well-planned spread of cold and hot starters, soup and dessert. “In our hotel, we have the various Oriental and Indian tastes catered to. But we wanted to create something new in the coffee shop, and at this time of year we have lush green lawns and the best ambience for a Mediterranean meal. Also, people nowadays want to eat healthy. And they want to eat grills but without oils and fats. The best option, therefore, is Mediterranean. It’s all cooked in olive oil and has a lot of fresh vegetables,” explains Chef Bhatia.

Certainly, looking at the range of cold starters on offer, one cannot complain about deficiencies in either taste or health. Everything here tastes divine and does so without clogging any arteries. And the spread caters to a variety of tastes, with the options ranging from free-spirited Spanish tapas to rugged Italian antipasti to subtle French canapes to exotic mezze options. Particular highlights include the parma ham, the ricotta in cucumber roll and the bocconcini flavoured with a light and flighty pesto.

Then there is the tatzini, which flavours refreshing cucumber with hung curd and a generous dose of sumak powder, which gives it a mild but definitely exotic flavour. And finally the Lebanese mashed potatoes, hidden so convincingly in the taste of yoghurt that one almost doesn’t realise that one tastes mashed potatoes.

Among the hot starters, the fried calamari is cut well so that there is enough substance in them but they do not get chewy. The falafel in pita pocket is a tad disappointing because it lacks a unique, defining taste. The tri-pepper bruschetta, in contrast, is surprisingly spunky. The highlight in this section, however, is the Greek chicken gyro. This is the Greek equivalent of the shawarma roll and derives its taste from the slow, vertical roasting method that infuses it with more flavour than one expects.

Onto the main course, where we try both the mixed seafood and the mixed meat grills. Among the seafood options, the tiger prawns stand out for sheer value for money. The prawns are large with generous amounts of meat, but cooked right so that they retain a wonderful tenderness. The crab cakes are also interesting with the ground green peas giving them an earthy flavour. The big finish here, however, comes from the red snapper, which has a firm texture and a slightly sweetish taste that goes very well with the marinade and the dollop of pesto served with the grill. On the mixed meat grill, the chicken drumstick manages a decent amount of flavour. But it’s the flavourful lamb that takes the cake. And the cous-cous that accompanies the grill is also nicely done, although perhaps a tad too dry for the grills.

Desserts also come suitably ranged, from the familiar coffee tastes of the tiramisu to the overflowing sweetness of the baklava. We take the middle path with a basboosa and are well rewarded for it. This semolina-based dessert is richly flavoured with almonds, and is cooked with a generous amount of butter, so that it retains enough moisture to simply melt in one’s mouth. This is an indulgence, but cooked cleverly so that one never feels overpowered by its flavours.

The Mediterranean food festival is on for dinner between 7 p.m. and 11 p.m. at 24/7 at The Grand Ashok till October 30. Contact 30527777 for details.

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