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ROAD LESS TRAVELLED

PHOTO: SOMA BASU

IN THE LAP OF NATURE At Vattaparai

The forest guard at the Bhoothapandi checkpost told me that an uphill drive of less than five km would take me to the Vattaparai waterfalls. My meter showed three times the distance and yet there was no sight or sound of water!

Instead, the uphill drive began to get progressively difficult, what with the badly damaged tar road winding up the Maramalai Hill becoming narrower at every bend. My instinct told me that something was wrong. The silence that enveloped the area left me with an uncanny feeling. I knew we were driving through the dense forests of the Keeriparai range in Kanyakumari District and that anything could happen at any moment in this corridor that teemed with wildlife.

My excitement at spotting some fresh elephant dung in the middle of the road was tinged with fear. Then came the big question: should we continue our drive onward for an encounter with elephants or other animals, or turn back and hunt for the elusive waterfalls. The driver – also a bit nervous by now – said we couldn’t do an immediate u-turn given the width of the road and the gorge on the other side. The choice was clear, and we cruised at 20km. The tall cedar and teakwood trees were almost obscured by a bamboo thicket that arched all along the road.

In the stillness, we suddenly heard the crunch of dry leaves. And yes, at the very next curve, we found the road blocked with a cluster of bamboos that had fallen. On the other side of this natural barricade stood three elephants, their backs turned to us. We stood silent, almost hidden behind a profusion of wild shrubs. The pachyderms soon disappeared into the forest but we waited for another 30 minutes before changing course.

I had thought my RLT destination was a waterfall, but coming face-to-face with elephants was something I had not bargained for. After descending a few km, we came across a Tempo Traveller parked by the side of the road. A group of men walked towards it completely drenched. Yes, that was it! They had been enjoying a natural shower in the waterfalls which were almost hidden in the valley deep below. The Forest Department, it appears, had forgotten to put up a board indicating the falls. Or was it their idea to keep visitors away? Obviously the locals were aware of the hidden track to the falls and soon, I too found it.

There had been torrential rain in the district and the mud track was slippery. I took small careful steps, trying not to squash the unusually large centipedes and millipedes on the path, at the same time, watching out for snakes and leeches. It took about 15 minutes to climb down.

Sometimes I had to hold on to rocks or clutch the branches of trees to avoid slipping. Finally, I climbed on to a big basalt boulder and caught a glimpse of a beautiful jungle stream. But where was the waterfall?

Though I had imagined a crashing wall of water, all I could see was a thin trickle along a 40-metre high face of rock. I made my way to the base where the waterfall formed a pool. The sparkling white water glistened with froth as it hit the pebbled bed before meandering off into the rainforest. I learnt that the rivulet was from the Pazhayar River in Kanyakumari District and is actually part of the Kalikesam falls which are at a higher elevation.

While Kalikesam has become a crowded tourist spot because of the Kali Temple situated nearby, Vattaparai largely remains people and pollution-free.

Deep in the heart of this lush jungle, you can revel in Nature in all its pristine beauty. The water almost tiptoes along the pebbles and ferns, forming charming eddies on its way. You can sit on the boulders and enjoy a leisurely lunch amid the greenery and birdsong.

The stream apparently criss-crosses an area or 20 sq.km in the wilderness. The locals want the area to be declared a wildlife sanctuary. For, here you can spot mountain squirrels, jungle fowl, a variety of snakes and other reptiles, besides elephant.

How to get there:Vattaparai is 15 km from Nagercoil and 35 km from Kanyakumari. Entry is from the Forest Department checkpost at Bhoothapandi village.

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