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ROAD LESS TRAVELLED
Royal remnant
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A landmark of south Travancore now lies in a state of ruins, writes SOMA BASU
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IN TROUBLED WATERS The tank in the palace
Eraniel at first sight appears like any other lush green village bordering Kerala. The beautiful landscape runs along a narrow meandering road. I sit back and enjoy the scenery. I am on this road in search of a mysterious 500-year-old palace. Be
fore setting out I read a news report about how more than two years ago the city administration had approved of a contingency plan by INTACH (Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage) to renovate the palace. Presuming that work must already be under full swing, I chose this destination for a date with ancient history.
About 12 km off Nagercoil on Kanyakumari-Thiruvananthapuram Highway I turn right to Thuckalaly and begin asking for directions to the Eraniel Palace. Surprisingly, majority of the people shrug and direct me to the more famous Padmanabhapuram Palace, about five km away.
Four years of RLT trips have taught me not to give up. As I look around, I spot a milestone pointing to a narrower Iraniel-Karungal Road. I go by my instincts and take the road.. Half a kilometre down, I see the dilapidated office building of the Hindu Religious and Charitable Endowments Department and the board in front states the office maintains the Eraniel Palace, a landmark in South Travancore. This administrative hub of Venad Kings may have been an architectural marvel in the past, but today it lies in a shocking state of ruins. Lack of maintenance and vandalism have destroyed this once-famous palace. Standing on the road, it is difficult to locate any part or side of the palace given the wild growth of vegetation all around. A passer-by casually tells me to be careful about snakes. But what scares me more is the palace looks haunted. In the absence of clear records, it is presumed that the Eraniel Palace was constructed during the reign of Vanchi Marthanda Varma of the Venad dynasty. When Padmanabhapuram Palace was completed in 1601, King Ravi Varma Kulashekhara shifted the seat of power to Padmanabhapuram and Eraniel was maintained as the second capital. The palace apparently had four large entrances of which the front was the most impressive, imposingly done in teak.
Historians have somewhat identified three existing parts of the palace now — the main entrance, the main palace and the spring pavilion. Finding my way through all sorts of plants and weeds, I reach a locked door in a damaged state. I squeeze myself through an opening on the right formed by collapsed walls. Once inside, I feel a bit composed. There is a visitor’s hall and another big hall. It is dark inside and smells damp. Stone pillars with deities and different traditional patterns, lotus motifs hold the weak wooden roof. Few more steps, I see some carved wooden structures against stone pillars. Apparently most of these wooden structures that have braved the ravages of time and termites are now lost — squandered by people ignorant of their historical importance for construction of houses. Faded mural paintings on the walls and roof panels depicting scenes from Ramayana and historical events remind of a glorious royal past. There is a small tank meant for royal bath.
Eraniel Palace which has witnessed many a decisive change in the history of Travancore lost its glory when Thiruvananthapuram emerged as the new capital of Venad kings.
I would recommend a trip to this palace only to those who are daring and adventurous.
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