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PHOTOS: V. GANESAN

This one takes itself extremely seriously as well it might, being markedly different from other upmarket Italian restaurants in the country. No pizzas here as you would find at the hugely popular La Piazza at Hyatt Regency (Delhi) or at the chic i.t.alia at The Park (Bangalore). And the wine library, from what I can recall, has many more editions than the one at Sam Gimigano, that cosy little nook at The Imperial (Delhi) that has its very own wine label and a menu that is worth poring over for the odd surprise. It isn’t that Prego is striving for a hidebound authenticity; there are dashes of experimentation here and there. But a real effort has been made to preserve the spirit and the quality of the original.

At the first glance, it is clear that the newly opened restaurant, situated where The Patio was at Taj Coromandel, has got at least three things right. Unlike the somewhat starchy and dated appearance of its predecessor, Prego, with its burgundy and gold interiors, exudes a warm buttery glow and a dash of contemporary chic. More importantly, it has chosen the specialty route rather than go the generalist way; The Patio, which passed for French in some quarters, was eclectically Continental, if influenced by nouvelle cuisine. Finally, there is the wine list itself – 75 labels from Italy alone out of a total list of some 300. Serious stuff, but then I am told by the Taj that Prego is as much about the wine as the food.

Dinner begins with a light-bodied delicate Pinot Grigio (Sartori Di Verona), the varietal the world loves and wine snobs deride. With a refreshing zest of soft lime and a slight aftertaste of honey, this summery wine is a perfect way to start before moving on to the reds. Prego’s knowledgeable Sri Kameswaran, who you must consult about the wine list, recommends the Bardolino, a blend from three relatively little-known varietals. This stunningly light and fruity red from the Venetian region is far easier on the palate than the earthy and tannic Nebbiolo, the mainstream Italian varietal I select from the list.

I pick the more conventional dishes off the traditionally structured menu. As Antipasti, the Parma Ham and Melon – that never fail starter which contrasts the saltiness of the former with the sweetness of the latter – arrives presented as if it were an art form. Apart from being a well-known chef in her own country, Giovanna Marson (in picture) apparently has the reputation of being something of a food stylist. Primo comprises of a creamy al dente Milanese style saffron risotto that is draped with a square of gold leaf. The gold leaf is an innovation of a famous Italian chef, who apparently wanted to add some sass and glamour to the dish.

Secondo is made up of smoky flavoured lamb chops seasoned with herbs, which Sri Kameswaran complements with a full-bodied, velvety Shiraz. The dish of the evening, however, is a generous helping from a neighbouring plate – a stunningly simple sea bass, steamed with the delicate but unmistakable flavour of green peppercorn.

The cuisine is a result of visits to several Michelin star restaurants and vineyards in Italy by Taj Chefs Hemant Oberoi and Nabhojit Ghosh. Of course, there is some homegrown innovation too, notably the Naanza – a delicious naan with tart and spicy olives made in a tandoori. For the most part, however, Prego makes a real effort at authenticity. Truffles are flown in every fortnight during the season, the Proscuitto or Parma Ham has been suitably dry-cured for a full 18 months, the rice in the risotto is real Arborio, at least four kinds of pasta are made in house, the balsamic vinegar is suitably aged, and even the lesser wines (never mind the Chateau Latour that sells at Rs. 59,000 a bottle or the other Grand Cru Classe vintages) are eminently drinkable.

The challenge for Prego is to persuade its clientele to enjoy its wines and to maintain its authenticity and character in the possible face of pressure to include regular Italian comfort food in the menu. The Taj Coromandel’s General Manager Arindam Kunar swears there is no question of going populist. I hope he’s right.

Meanwhile, Grazie for Prego.

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