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To the uninitiated, Tamilian food usually means idli, dosas and sambar. Chutney, the Indian restaurant at The Metropolitan Hotel, Delhi, now introduces the Capital to a new South Indian cuisine till the end of next week. It brings Chettinad food from Karaikudi. Chef Karpraja from Karaikudi ensures the food is aromatic and spicy, but not chilli hot. The meal opens with a crisp little snack. Its presentation is more lavish than the taste. Chutney is known for the numerous condiments it offers. The coconut chutney is full bodied and tasty. The tomato chutney, however, lacks spunk. The red chilli one makes up for this with a fistful of spiciness. The vegetarian dishes use generous amounts of dried red chillies, tempered with toor dal and coconut. The okra curry is especially good.

Among the many appetisers the mince ball is superb. With a rough exterior, it contains fine mince. Seasoned with roasted cumin it simply melts in the mouth, while leaving a crunchiness to chew on. The fish appetiser straddles the line between being well-fried and burnt. But it is done well, leaving the fish tender and succulent. The fish curry, made with a bony fish, has a rasam-like aftertaste. But those not adept at de-boning a fish with either hands or teeth, should be careful while eating this. The crab curry is very good. It is a struggle against shell and claws to reach the flesh, but well worth the effort. The chicken Chettinad curry is not special. The meat pieces are squat and the curry seems amateurish.

The food goes best with the egg paranthas. The paranthas are fine and flaky. The taste of egg is pleasant and not insistent. Though the lemon rice is gentle and fragrant, it does not go well with the curries, as the sour tastes clash.

Filter coffee is good to end with but loses its charm in a bland white cup. The traditional tumbler and katori allow the drinker to alter the sweetness and temperature of the coffee to individual taste.

A meal for two costs Rs.1600 plus taxes.

NANDINI NAIR

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