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Photo: Bhagya Prakash K.

Spoilt for choice Chef Naren Thimmaiah and an array of delicious comestibles

The soups, for instance, stretch all the way from the tom yum kai with chicken and lemon grass to the Hungarian lamb goulash to the wild mushroom cappuccino. The second is a meal by itself, and a rather nice option too because it manages here to be much lighter on the tongue than I’ve seen it done elsewhere.

The cappuccino, on the other hand, gives more weight than one expects from it. However, it isn’t so overwrought that its smoky, lilting flavour is lost.

The starters picked out for us by Chef Naren Thimmaiah too spanned an interesting range. The highlight, of course, were the fried button idlis with mulgapudi and chutney, although all health advantages from eating idlis are completely lost here. Then there was also the sautéed prawns on crisp tossed asparagus with aioli, quite nice on the tongue.

There’s the pizza, pasta and risotto section, which makes for some rather safe and competent meal options. The pizza diavola, with tomato, cheese and spicy salami was the best of the lot, while the pasta alla matriciana, with generous helpings of bacon in a simple tomato sauce, also hit the spot. The risotto with asparagus, broccoli, zucchini, spinach and ruccola, however, wasn’t as exciting as one would have liked, lacking a distinctly Italian flavour.

Among the main course options we tried, Stir definitely scored on its old Indian specialities. The nalli Amritsari was an interesting experience, playful and peppy despite the rich heaviness of the nalli.

The old staple of lazeez paneer also settled into a warm, familiar place, touching most of the right notes. The pan-seared Norwegian salmon steak, in contrast, was a full-bodied experience, laying it on thick and rich, but in a good way.

And at the other end of the spectrum was the yed phak nam deng, with a name that sounds like an expletive, but a taste that is anything but crude. This simple recipe is steamed vegetables in a soy sauce with fried rice or noodle, and pickled vegetable salad.

Closing up our meal was the sinful dark chocolate mousse that has been the specialty of the Potluck Cafe next door almost since it started.

A word of warning: this dessert is a meal by itself and then too only for die-hard chocoholics. For the rest of us lesser mortals, the Italian apple pie or closer home, the malai kulfi with falooda might be a much better choice.

To make things easier for customers, Stir has three-course TDH options, vegetarian and meat platters and combo meals with breads and gravies that go well together. There is also a wellness menu with options such as the roasted beet salad, fisherman’s stew, khichdi and so on. Stir is at the Taj Gateway at 66, Residency Road and can be contacted on 66604545.

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