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Way to go!
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Indian designers broke new ground abroad while, at home, international brands made their entry. P. ANIMAtracks the trends
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Photo: Rajeev Bhatt
It’s in Yellow was a show stopper this year Raghavendra Rathore
Indian designers broke new ground in Paris and breezed through the New York, London and Sydney fashion weeks. International brands knocked on Indian doors. Promising youngsters appeared on the fashion horizon. Four fashion weeks, umpteen individual s
hows, tie-ups between designers and corporates – the fashion calendar was packed throughout the year 2007.
“In” and “Out”
When it came to “what’s in” and “what’s out”, the verdict was on the “formal look.” “The big colour of the year was yellow for summer and purple for winter,” says Harmeet Bajaj, fashion commentator. “If 2006 was about voluminous silhouettes, the balloon was deflated this year. Leaner, straight silhouettes were in. The trousers wore a flared look while the tops were narrow,” she adds.
Narendra Kumar, designer and former fashion editor of Elle in India, agrees. “The major trend for women was the balloon skirt. For men, it was the slim look, even for jeans. The stress was on looking formal. The lounge look is out,” he says.
Narendra showed his Spring-Summer wear for men this year and is eloquent about the changing trends in men’s fashion. “Men are more aware of trends. Earlier, life depended on T- shirts. Now, they are looking at layering and it is driven by the younger generation. They are asking for good cuts and great fits,” he says.
Though the international trends and silhouettes were echoed here, it was not a lean year for Indian silhouettes either.
According to fashion veteran, Ritu Kumar, the year marked the return of the “old silhouettes.” “Clothes with empire lines and full lehengas were in. The salwar-kameez and sari showed they are to stay,” says the designer.
As far as accessories go, it was bags, big belts, sports watches and travel shoes. “ The concept of big bags, with shiny stuff and patent leather, was big this year,” says Narendra.
Indian presence
The year was also marked by the beeline Indian designers made to foreign shores. A highlight, of course, was the presence of Manish Arora and Anamika Khanna at the prestigious Paris Fashion Week.
If the veterans made a place for themselves on the international circuit, the youngsters too did not lag behind. Anupama Dayal and Vineet Bahl, supported by Lakme Fashion Week and IMG, made their debut at Rosemount Australia Fashion Week in Sydney.
Raghavendra Rathore
Foreign sojourns give a “smell” of India to the West, says Narendra. Though no great mark is made in the Western market, these are “initial steps to increase acceptability of Indian designs.”
Many youngsters too managed to grab eyeballs this year. At the 10th edition of the Wills Lifestyle India Fashion Week, Varun Sardana, Prashant Verma and Abhijeet Khanna created a stir.
“The big names are stuck. I was impressed by some of the youngsters. Varun Sardana, Vineet Bahl and Arjun Saluja gave a very fresh look,” says Harmeet.
Of partnerships
India created a buzz abroad, but at home the fashion fraternity was coming to terms with the onslaught of international brands.
“With the huge influx of foreign labels there is some confusion,” admits Ritu. Gucci, Jimmy Choo and Judith Leiber geared up to open shop in India. Though designers like Narendra believe international competition would enhance the “value of Indian designs”, others embarked on an expansion mode. Rohit Bal designed for British Airways, while Raghavendra Rathore ventured into home textiles along with S. Kumars.
“With the retail boom, it is important to have strategic alliances,” Raghavendra is candid. He knows “we will never win that battle with international brands” but says it is important to “align strategically.” “It will bring equity into the company,” he says.
Such tie-ups enhance presence in the domestic market, believes Raghavendra. “The home textiles will be available in 600 stores. It helps you realise the power of fashion, otherwise, you cater to a small and niche market,” he reasons.
Amidst, all the plans, strategies, flips and highs, there was never a dull moment.
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Metro Plus
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