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SERENE A view from ridge

Jilling was a name which used to reverberate in my mind. So when my friend asked me to accompany him to Jilling recently, I was more than ready. I was going not only to see the place but would also get to meet the legendary Steve Lall, the owner of more than 45 acres of oak and rhododendron mixed forest in the pristine Jilling Estate, who is responsible for making Jilling what it is today.

We started our journey early morning from Delhi, with my Enfield being the vehicle of adventure. After stopping en route for breakfast and lunch we arrived at the majestic Bhimtal near Nainital. After a short break we did the last leg of the journey up to village Matial just before Padampuri. The scenery on the way was simply breathtaking. With the sun going down, the shadows being cast on the Kumaon hills and the river flowing below were simply spectacular.

Ram Lal was waiting with his pony for us at Matial, for the one-hour trek up to Jilling. We put our luggage on the pony and set out across one of the most lush landscapes in Kumaon, following a steep trail. We arrived at our cottage at nightfall. Daya, one of the caretakers at Jilling, served us hot tea, and a fire had been kindled in the old style fireplace to bring the much required warmth to the chilly evening.

The crystal clear waters of Jilling that attract many

Morning brought one of the most glorious views of the Nanda Devi and Trishul ranges, which were magnificently perched facing the estate. We soon walked across to Steve’s cottage to be greeted by one of his many dogs. And there stood the legendary Steve with his overgrown beard and the widest smile one can imagine! He welcomed us and soon we were charmed by his infectious warmth and brilliance. We bombarded him with all kinds of question, and Steve was ever gracious in satisfying our inquisitiveness.

Steve told us that his mother had bought the estate in 1942, and it meant not only a home but something that he had to protect. He believes that nature should be allowed to take its own course and human interference should be kept to a minimum if one wants to conserve the forests. A veteran Air Force pilot, Steve has gone out of his way and has played a larger-than-life role to protect the flora and fauna of the place spread across 50 to 60 acres. Steve did not allow the local panchayat to build a road up to the estate, and not being connected to the road has helped Jilling become a peaceful haven ideal for nature lovers.

Steve, 65 years young, is also a diehard biker at heart and has had several bikes. During his younger years he used to bike around on an imported Enfield, a Harley Davidson 1250, a Triumph T110 650, Yamaha 350 twin, the works! At present he drives a Bullet 500, Thunderbird and a Yezdi all across the country. He says his travels have helped him appreciate what nature offers to man and have led him to do what he is doing today.

He set us on a trek to give us the chance to spot some birds and animals. We were soon in dense forest where even the sunlight found it difficult to enter. We saw a couple of barking deer running for cover on the way. The birds were in profusion and some of them seemed to land in Jilling straight out of the books.

The forest suddenly opened onto the edge of the ridge where a wall went 2500 feet down. Soon we were enveloped in thick clouds. It all seemed surreal.

We arrived back at our cottage late in the afternoon. After a hearty meal we fell asleep. The estate has four old style cottages, each spacious enough to accommodate five people and equipped with all the facilities you might dread not getting in the hills.

At night, wandering about on my own, I lost my way in the jungle. As I gave up and sat down, I could see the stars up there twinkling, as if to share with me the beauty of the place they had always known.

It did not matter if I could not find my way back. I knew I was finally at home in Jilling!

Jilling Estate spread around 50-60 acres on Kumaon hills

Website – www.jilling.net

Old style cottages.

Rs.1500 per night per person inclusive of food and activities

Delhi, Hapur, Moradabad,Tanda, Bazpur, Haldwani, Bhimtal, Jilling

All year round

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