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Not forbidden

A new restaurant is different without being daring



Combinations The aloe vera and pomelo salad at Indo-Chine

The Forbidden City concept of Singapore now comes to Delhi. Set across open vista in Lado Sarai, The Forbidden City by Indo-Chine includes three separate dining spaces. Madame Butterfly is an outdoor space, Cocoon Supper Club is a lounge area with low seating and Indo-Chine Alfresco is a complete restaurant.

The interiors of Indo-Chine are rather stolid. With heavy upholstery and a dark décor the atmosphere is a tad oppressive. But the view is expansive.

The menu is eloquent, with both exotic and expected dishes. For appetisers the crumb fried batter prawns are good. It is a simple dish. And tastes good in its predictability. The accompanying sauce adds some colour to it. There are many vegetarian starters to choose from. Do not go for the cheese roll, unless you are the microwave-television-dinner kind of person.

The Tom Yam soup is very good. It is like a good Tamilian rasam with a Thai makeover. It is filled with button mushrooms, cherry tomatoes and generous pieces of chicken. Its spiciness is more enjoyable than spiteful. There is a surprising array of salads. The Aloe Vera and pomelo salad from Cambodia is excellent. Aloe Vera is unusual in dishes. Its sliminess might be disturbing but the dish itself is fresh and luxuriant. The pomelo compliments it well. Sources say that the dish is especially popular with kitty party goers, who want to watch their weight while being different!

Expected fare

The main courses are the expected Chinese fare. But an impressive seafood section does evoke interest. King prawns with litchi is a hit. Double element chicken, which is grilled chicken prepared with ginger, spring onions, pepper and five spice powder is a smart choice. Served in a special blend of peanut butter and tomato and chilli sauce it goes well with plain rice.

The vegetarian dishes are as usual the stir fried and pan fried varieties. Stir fried vegetables in a vegetarian oyster sauce is good but not special.

Stick to the Chinese deserts. The chocolate temptation tastes good but the texture is too dense for comfort.

For a new restaurant it is certainly worth a visit. But does it offer genuine Indo-Chine food? Roger Hong, Director International Business Development of the group, says frankly, “No. We have to adjust. If we cooked just like we wanted, then the locals wouldn’t like it.” He elaborates, “Locals don’t like chicken skin. But that’s the best part! But then they want duck with crispy skin! Adjustments have to be made.”

With five restaurants in Singapore and branches in Germany, Indonesia, etc., Indo-Chine is poised to give Delhi a treat.

A meal for two will cost Rs.150 0 plus taxes.

NANDINI NAIR

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