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SERENE The crystal clear waters of Jilling.

We started our journey early morning from Delhi on my Enfield. We stopped en-route for breakfast and lunch and arrived at the majestic Bhimtal near Nainital. After a short break, we set out on the last leg of the journey up to village Matial just before Padampuri.

The scenery on the way was breathtaking. With the sun going down, the shadows being cast on the Kumaon hills and the river flowing below were a sight to behold. Ram Lal was waiting with his pony for us at Matial, for the one-hour trek up to Jilling. We put our luggage on the pony, and set out across one of the most lush landscapes in Kumaon, following a steep trail. We arrived at our cottage at nightfall. Daya, one of the caretakers at Jilling, served us hot tea, and a fire had been lit in the old-style fireplace.

A view from the ridge.

Morning brought one of the most glorious views of the Nanda Devi and Trishul ranges, which were magnificently perched facing the estate. We soon walked across to Steve’s cottage to be greeted by one of his many dogs.

And there stood the legendary Steve with his overgrown beard and the widest smile one can imagine! He welcomed us and soon we were charmed by his infectious warmth and brilliance. We bombarded him with all kinds of questions, and Steve was ever gracious in satisfying our inquisitiveness. Steve told us that his mother had bought the estate in 1942, and it meant not only a home but something that he had to protect.

A veteran Air Force pilot, Steve has gone out of his way and has played a larger-than-life role to protect the flora and fauna of the place spread across 50 to 60 acres. Steve did not allow the local panchayat to build a road up to the estate, and not being connected to the road has helped Jilling remain a peaceful haven. Steve, 65 years young, is also a diehard biker.

When young, he used to bike around on an imported Enfield, a Harley Davidson 1250, a Triumph T110 650, Yamaha 350 twin, the works! Now he drives around the country on a Bullet 500, Thunderbird and a Yezdi. He says his travels have helped him appreciate what Nature offers to man and have led him to do what he is doing today.

He set us on a trek to spot some birds and animals. We were soon inside a dense forest, difficult for even the sunlight to penetrate. We saw a couple of barking deer running for cover on the way. The birds were in profusion and some of them seemed to land in Jilling straight out of the books.

The forest suddenly opened onto the edge of the ridge where a wall went 2,500 feet down. Soon we were enveloped in thick clouds. It all seemed surreal. We returned to our cottage late in the afternoon. After a hearty meal we fell asleep. The estate has four old world cottages, each spacious enough to accommodate five people and equipped with all the facilities you might dread not getting in the hills.

At night, wandering about on my own, I lost my way in the jungle. As I gave up and sat down, I could see the stars up there twinkling, as if to share with me the beauty of the place they had always known. It did not matter if I could not find my way back. I knew I was finally at home in Jilling!

Jilling Estate spread across 50-60 acres on Kumaon Hills (website – www.jilling.net)

Old style cottages.

Rs.1,500 per night per person inclusive of food.

Delhi, Hapur, Moradabad, Tanda, Bazpur, Haldwani, Bhimtal and Jilling.

All year round.

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