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Photo: R. Shivaji Rao

Cheers! Dennis Lillee (right) with Christo Edwards

Dennis Lillee, arguably the greatest fast bowler of his generation, was recently in the city to pour us samples of his two gorgeously-fragrant, soon-to-be-launched wines, a Sauvignon Blanc and a Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot. Released under his new wine label, “25 steps,” in memory of the steps he took on his famous run-up to the crease during his test cricketing days, the wine comes from an interesting vineyard, run by the Edwards brothers, Mike and Christo.

Now, Edwards Wines, located in the heart of the Margaret River, a region famous for wines is part of another legacy. The brothers, who accompanied Lillee to Chennai, joke about how it’s the “great surfing” that drew them to the area. Actually, it’s their father, the flying physiotherapist, who bought the land in 1990, and then divided his time between planning the vineyard and an epic journey. “He bought a bomb fighter… a Tiger Moth,” says Christo. And they called it Matilda.

Their father, Brian Edwards, then decided to fly ‘Matilda’ solo, from England to Australia, in memory of his father, a World War II pilot who didn’t make it home, and also to raise money for Legacy, an Australian charity that supports the children of deceased Australian service men. He died of leukaemia in 2003. Matilda’s now in the wine cellar, so visitors can drink her in, along with their Cabernets. And Brian’s route-map sprawls across the brothers’ very cool label and business cards.

Perhaps the reason Edwards Wines has got so much attention is because the vineyard is more than just a business venture. “We live on the property, with our wives and kids,” grins Christo, “And it’s just beautiful.” Mike talks of the 60,000 vines, which yield the fruit that goes into their bottles.

Although their high end label ‘Edwards’ and the popular label ‘Tiger’s Tale’ are already well established, 25 Steps was really a whole new ball game. “I chose them because I knew their father. And I wanted the wine to be from where I came,” says Lillee, discussing the label, which has been created specifically for India. They then went back and forth; trying different blends till they arrived at one that everyone liked, which they felt would work here.

“I see tastes changing,” says Lillee, talking of how people only drank beer and whiskey ten years ago. “Younger people in particular are demanding a good wine. Especially those that have travelled a bit.” He adds, “Your tastes can change within six months. I started out liking sweet chardonnays, then moved to French-style Reds, and finally full-bodied reds. There’s a learning curve. In the end the Indian palate will adjust.” And, if all goes according to plan, “25 Steps” will grow along with it, bringing in new wines.

The white wine, a blend of Semillion and Sauvignon blanc, is crisp, with flavours of citrus, gooseberry and passion fruit. “The sweetness you taste is of the fruit,” says Mike, adding “Australian wines tend to be more drinkable, more approachable.” The red is equally welcoming, ripe and full bodied. “Cabernet sauvignon is often described to have a doughnut effect,” says Mike, “So you get a lot of flavour and texture, and then there’s a hole. Merlot fills that hole. So you get a nice full mouthful.”

All three insist that they didn’t just tailor the wines for optimum sales in the Indian market. “We made a wine that all of us like drinking,” said Christo, swirling the Sauvignon Blanc in his wineglass, and inhaling with satisfaction. “I’ve been coming to India for the past 20 years,” says Lillee, agreeing. “I feel it would be nice to leave a legacy here. I’m not doing it to make a quick quid… We have a vision.”

One of the main reason people have resisted screw caps is the romance of the cork – the ritual of using a corkscrew and the soul-satisfying ‘pop’ when the bottle opens. Mike, however, is clearly a realist. “Romance?” he grins, “If you need to pull a cork out of a bottle for romance you’ve got a problem!”

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