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Mandu: An architectural delight

Though little known, a visit to Mandu would leave many spellbound



View of the Jami Masjid

It was during my recent professional tour to Indore that I chanced upon this exhilarating destination, thanks to the timely tip from a finance executive of RINL Nimai Mondal. I had the opportunity to visit the beautiful spot Mandu with two of my coll eagues N. Valli Padmaja and N. Rashmi, and we were thrilled beyond words after the visit.

Little known to the outside world, Mandu is a hill fort located in the Dhar district of Madhya Pradesh. It is situated about 35 km. to the south of Dhar town. Majestically placed on a hill at an altitude of about 633 metres, it is separated from Malwa Plateau by the ‘Kakra Khoh’ Ravine. The hill range is endowed with natural flora and fauna and is dotted with a number of brooks and streams. The right season to visit Mandu would be during the monsoon when the vegetation is at its lustrous best. This city was earlier called as ‘Shadiabad’, the ‘City of Joy’ by the Muslim rulers.

Mandu can be accessed from Mhow or Indore, which are the two most convenient railheads. Regular bus services connect Mandu with Indore, Dhar, Mhow, Ratlam, Ujjain and Bhopal. Madhya Pradesh Tourism’s Travel Lodge, Government Rest Houses and a few small economy Hotels are available to accommodate the tourists.

History

The early traceable history of Mandu dates back to the sixth century A.D. There is enough evidence to suggest the existence of a hill fort known as ‘Mandapa Durga’ at that time. Abul-Fadl, a renowned historian, in his book ‘Vikrama Smriti Grantha’, refers to a fanciful legend about the origin of the name. According to him, a goldsmith by name ‘Mandana’ discovered a magical ‘Paras’ (gem stone) that could produce gold and gave it to the then reigning king. The king then built a fort and named it after the goldsmith, which over the years got transformed to ‘Mandava’ and to ‘Mandu’.

Mahmud of Ghazni did not invade Malwa, but in view of the invasion and plundering of Somnath, King Bhoja strengthened the defence works at Mandu. In 1283 AD, Bhoja II ascended the throne of Malwa and he had to face the Sultan of Delhi Jalal-Ud-Din-Khilji, who invaded the kingdom in 1293 AD. However, Mandu was under the Hindu rulers up to 1305 AD, when the last king Mahlak Deo was slain by a trusted General of Alau’d-din-Khilji. Since then it had become part of the Delhi Sultanate.

It was under the long reign of Mahmud Shah, the first Khilji ruler of Mandu, that the Kingdom of Malwa attained glorious heights. His fondness for architecture is amply showcased by a number of edifices at Mandu that have stood the test of time.

Mahmud’s marble tomb, ‘Ashrafi Mahal’ and the Madarasa are some of the structures that call for a study in architecture. The Jami Masjid was designed after the great mosque of Damascus.

The other edifices that need a closer look are the ‘Jahaz Mahal’ (a palace built in the shape of a ship between two ponds), the ‘Hindola Mahal’, ‘Rupmati’s Pavillion’, tombs of Hoshang Shah and Darya Khan, ‘Dai Ki Chhoti Bahen ka Mahal’, ‘Hathi Mahal’, ‘Baz Bahadur’s Palace’, ‘Lal Mahal’, ‘Chishti Khan’s Palace’, and ‘Chhappan Mahal’.

Though little known, a visit to Mandu would leave many spellbound.

S. SRINIVAS BHARADWAJ

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