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INSIDE STORY

Serene setting Tawang Monastery, where biscuits and chocolates are given as offerings

This saga is set in the 17th Century and a horse is the hero of the tale. I am in Arunachal Pradesh where the colours change with every curve in the mountains. Bright mustard fields merge with some brilliant orchids that suddenly morph into dense forests with rivers, to conifers kissed by snow flakes, to frozen lakes and a valley of clouds that wraps snow clad mountains.

I heard this story in Tawang, which means “Chosen by horse”. Merag Lama was praying in a cave, seeking divine help to locate a site for a monastery, but his horse went missing. The search took him atop a hill where he found it peacefully grazing. He saw this as a celestial sign and gave the town and the monastery its name.

Built with the approval of the 5th Dalai Lama, the Tawang Monastery is known as Galden Namgey Lhatse meaning “celestial paradise”. If there is a heaven on earth, this is it. It can house about 600 monks and apparently chocolates and biscuits are given as offerings here.

Nestled at an altitude of 3,500 metres, Tawang is home to the Mompas. Ravaged by war, it is dotted with army bunkers and war memorials.

As we were driving, clouds surrounded us, hiding everything from mountains to grasslands, flowers and birds and gently touching our cheeks as well. A glacier then led us to a gate guarded by dragons. Colourful flags were fluttering around. We were at Sella Pass, where war and romance meet at 13,700 feet. And a tale of tragedy unfolds amidst the scattered snow.

Sella was a local girl who loved Jaswant, an Indian soldier against her father’s wishes. During the Indo-China war, Jaswant Singh single-handedly fought the Chinese for three days by fooling them while Sella brought him ammunition and food from the camp.

The story goes that Jaswant positioned himself on a hill top in a long trench and placed rifles to give an impression that the entire army was behind him. Finally he was betrayed by Sella’s father and was captured and beheaded by the Chinese. Sella in agony committed suicide by jumping from a hillock. A brass bust of Jaswant is kept in Jaswant Garh, also the site of the battle. Sella has a pass at 13,700 feet named after her.

A couple of dogs frolicked in the snow. A small shop served hot tea and noodles. We drank in silence. It was biting cold. But the story warmed our hearts.

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