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Beauty spots Suzhou has the largest collection of classical gardens in China

Chinese gardens are classified as Imperial, Monastery or Residential. Suzhou’s classical gardens are of the Monastery and Residential type. Originating in the Jin Dynasty — 317-420 AD, they prospered through the Song and Ming dynasties and then reaching a peak in the Qing Dynasty – 1644 to 1911 AD. Ranging from one acre to 80 acres, these residential gardens were created by individuals and families for their personal enjoyment unlike French gardens which formed part of royal palaces. While the symmetrical layout of Italian, French and Mughal gardens reveal their structure and elements at the very outset, Chinese gardens are about discovery and variety. The composition of pavilions, terraces, courtyards, towers, ponds, pathways, bridges and lattice grilled windows create natural sceneries of multiple prospects and depth.

The Master of Nets garden is only 0.6 ha but its charm is manifold. We were here early in the morning, when it is most serene and yet to be besieged by tourists. Established in 1758 by Song Zongyuan, the garden still retains most of the original character and plantings. The middle portion has a large pond surrounded by pavilions, corridors, walkways, rocks, flowers and woods. The names of pavilions, when literally translated are amusing. The “Washing My Ribbon over the Water Pavilion” is the best place to enjoy the scenery as it cantilevers over the water. The southern section has the Music Room and Fragrance Pavilion, where banquets and music events are held in the evenings. The northern section is more contemplative with each of the pavilions opening into or framing views of courtyards through latticed windows. One of the hallmarks of this garden is the manner in which space expands in multiple layers even in the smallest courtyards through the composition of plantation, tiles, mosaics and rocks set against white plastered walls.

The West Garden Temple, 1.6 acres in size, was built during the Yuan Dynasty. It is an active temple and a beautiful garden combined. The garden has the Fangsheng pond, where Buddhist worshippers tend to fish and there are rare tortoises, surrounded by a constructed landscape of mansions, pavilions, flowers and trees.

The temple is renowned for the Arhats hall where 500 Buddhas having different facial expressions and clothes are seated with their characteristic plump body. In the centre of the temple is a sculpture of Kwan-yin, 13 meters high with a thousand eyes and hands and carved by fragrant camphor timber. Beside that is a Buddha statue whose face has four sides with four different expressions representing the four sacred mountains of Buddhism.

In contrast is the large 5.5 ha Humble Administrator’s Garden. We tried to chalk out the best possible route through the garden with the help of the map. But the three dimensional experience is entirely different. One of the defining experiences in the garden is the grand view of the northern pagoda from one end of the pond through the Secluded Pavilion. The east of the pond is generally flat and has a lot of flowering plants and trees. The south of the pond is occupied more by pavilions. The Hall of Drifting Fragrance, its white walls and dark roof tiles contrast with the surrounding greenery and is reflected in the water that flows beside. The Magnolia Hall with its stained glass windows is rare in Chinese gardens. The northern portion is dominated by hills, dense plantations and lookout towers such as the “Mountain-In View Tower”. Although the garden is fairly large, it is visually, physically and architecturally connected. The repetition of details and use of wood, stone and plantations unite the different pavilions in architectural character.

Suzhou is famous for several other key landmarks such as the Textile Museum, which documents the 2000 year history of silk. The silk stores in Suzhou are known for their gowns and not unlike our Kanjivaram, people visit Suzhou to buy their wedding gowns. Suzhou is also famous for its aromatic Biluochun tea and fans.

While the entire town is not really walkable, some key areas are pedestrianised like in Europe. One such street is the recently refurbished Guanqian shopping street named after the mysterious Taoist temple and more than 150 years old. With a liberal sprinkling of restaurants and shops in the plaza, this street resembles modern day China more closely than the serene gardens.

The city has something to offer for everyone, from a serious student of landscape architecture to a day-tripper from Shanghai who steps into the slower pace of this town.

Hotels: Yu-Yi Hotel on West Baita Road or Motel 168 on Pingqi Road. More luxury options are Ramada Plaza, Bamboo Grove or Bamboo Grove Hotel on Zhuhui Road.

Getting there: By train from Shanghai or Nanjing. Two direct trains from Shanghai to Suzhou are in the mornings, with return on same day in the evenings. By bus from Shanghai’s Pudong International Airport or Hongqiao airport. Fare 50 to 90 Yuan.

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