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The gardens of this Chinese city are unique for their pavilions, terraces and courtyards
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Beauty spots Suzhou has the largest collection of classical gardens in China
Zipping on the super fast bullet train at more than 150 km/hr, the 120km from Shanghai to Suzhou is covered in less than 45 minutes. Suzhou is built around the Grand Canal which connects Huangzhou and Beijing. This network of canals and pedestrian br
idges, echoing Venice, is also a transportation network and an added charm. Small stone bridges arch gracefully over these canals, some only 12 to 15 feet wide. But the main attractions of Suzhou are the largest collection of classical gardens in China.
Chinese gardens are classified as Imperial, Monastery or Residential. Suzhou’s classical gardens are of the Monastery and Residential type. Originating in the Jin Dynasty — 317-420 AD, they prospered through the Song and Ming dynasties and then reaching a peak in the Qing Dynasty – 1644 to 1911 AD. Ranging from one acre to 80 acres, these residential gardens were created by individuals and families for their personal enjoyment unlike French gardens which formed part of royal palaces. While the symmetrical layout of Italian, French and Mughal gardens reveal their structure and elements at the very outset, Chinese gardens are about discovery and variety.
The Master of Nets garden is only 0.6 ha but its charm is manifold. We were here early in the morning, when it is most serene and yet to be besieged by tourists. Established in 1758 by Song Zongyuan, the garden still retains most of the original character and plantings. The middle portion has a large pond surrounded by pavilions, corridors, walkways, rocks, flowers and woods. The names of pavilions, when literally translated are amusing. The “Washing My Ribbon over the Water Pavilion” is the best place to enjoy the scenery as it cantilevers over the water. The southern section has the Music Room and Fragrance Pavilion, where banquets and music events are held in the evenings. The northern section is more contemplative with each of the pavilions opening into or framing views of courtyards through latticed windows. One of the hallmarks of this garden is the manner in which space expands in multiple layers even in the smallest courtyards through the composition of plantation, tiles, mosaics and rocks set against white plastered walls.
Suzhou is famous for several other key landmarks such as the Textile Museum, which documents the 2000 year history of silk.
C. S. RAGHURAM AND KAVITHA SELVARAJ
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