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Photo: K. Ganesan

The East Masi Street in 2008.

A stroll around the four Veli Streets -- which housed the original city 1500 years ago – brings in the line of vision several old structures with gorgeous facades or balconies culled out and carved exquisitely in wood.

Apart from the historical ones such as Meenakshi Sundareswarar Temple and Tirumalai Naicker Mahal built by kings and queens, there are individual structures, which can compete with these monuments in trumpeting the city’s original identity. Built by ordinary individuals in the form of traditional houses, these buildings hold the vibrant culture of the people living in them till today.

“Traditional or old houses are those that are above 75 years as per the norms of the Archaeological Survey of India. In Madurai, we have houses that are 200 to 250 years old. But the disheartening aspect is that these houses are fast vanishing putting the city in an identity crisis,” says G. Balaji, Assistant Professor of Architecture in Thiagarajar College of Engineering.

He says that the spatial pattern of traditional houses clearly reflects the social and occupational structures of people. For example, Yadavas (cattle owners) have more open space while Chettiar community (business people) have more enclosed space.

Similarly, the traditional houses are more eco friendly and climate responsive, he says and adds that the courtyard (mutrram) is the heart of the house and the windows (wind and eye) are focused around the courtyards.

Openings at the terrace level or ‘kattu pandal’ (huge openings at the higher level facing the wind) are other added advantageous features that make the houses more climate-friendly, Mr. Balaji notes.

Apart from structures, even the construction materials, such as lime, used are eco-friendly and locally available.

The Madras terrace roof with its 450 mm thick wall acts as a tough barrier against the hot sun, he says.

“The houses are responsive to environment. Courtyards are an extension of street and vice versa as it responds to local activities of the street,” he says.

‘Thinnai’ in front of every house acts as transitional space between the street and house. The thinnai, projected wooden balconies and twin columns with arches, the architectural presentations, purely dictate the economical and cultural status of the place.

The Sourashtra cluster was found around Tirumalai Naicker Palace while Chettiar cluster dominated the South Masi Street and Brahmins were spread from North Chithirai Street to North Aavanimoola Street and from East Chithrai Street to East Marret Street. The Muslims were between Koodal Alagar Temple and Crime Branch areas.

Now, what happened to the city’s traditional identities and where have they gone?

“It is slowly vanishing and modernisation is taking its toll,” he says and adds that people who are aware of its uniqueness have retained its front structure while modernising the rear end of the house and a few are under property dispute that slowly deteriorates the structure.”

Six years ago, Mr. Balaji says, the city lost 32 to 40 per cent of its traditional houses. A survey conducted eight months ago around the Veli Streets revealed that the city has been able to retain only 20 to 25 per cent of its original structures. This means 450-odd are left today.

“The skyrocketing land value, globalisation and marketing strategies have taken a toll on our traditional identity, besides owner’s ignorance, negligence and lack of space," he points out.

The city that was once a residing place has transformed itself into more like a shopping arena. He also lists out a few structures like Bodi Bungalow and traditional houses that have changed into commercial structures such as lodges and hotels.

Is it possible to build similar heritage houses even today? Certainly, materials are available but masters of the art are hard to find as people are after posh and hi-tech buildings that emanate heat even with installation of air conditioners, Mr. Balaji quips.

“Traditional houses are research based. There was no electricity and common walls between houses yet they were able to keep the house cool with judicious use of light and air, which the modern houses are not able to provide with all their windows and air conditioners.”

To be simple, there is no need to build a new one. It is wise to preserve whatever is remaining to save the real city from transforming into concrete jungle. As of now, the efforts at restoration, however, are often not as determined as elsewhere in the world where tall modern towers have not sprouted at the expense of architectural legacy.

“It is hard to maintain. We do not have the old materials as well as artisans,” says K.S. Ramachandran, who lives in the 83-year-old palatial Chandrodaya Bungalow popularly known as ‘Kudai Veedu.’ “The house is able to retain its antique value but not fully as we have whitewashed the structures and used cement as part of maintenance work,” he says and adds that only if the owners take a concrete and united decision, such structures will retain their distinctiveness.

Even after four generations, the descendants of K. Shanmugam Pillai, ex-municipal councillor, still share their joyous occasions in this palatial building that has Burma teak doors, windows and staircases. The family takes pride in owning such a unique structure.

Mr.Balaji advocates concessions or tax benefits for owners of such heritage buildings. “Creating an awareness that heritage is not a constraint for development but rather a development in context,” he says and notes that the authorities should prove that there could be a linkage between economy and heritage.

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