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A WAY OF LIFE Fatehpur Sikri

Located in the state of Uttar Pradesh, this magnificent “deserted city” was once the seat of the 16th Century Mughal Emperor, Akbar, and is an effortless 40km drive from Agra. Having no expectations about what lay ahead, there was a sense of intrigue on sighting the high walls of the fort which hinted at the scale of the ancient complex. However, this excitement was quickly singed upon arrival at the enormous car park which could have been the entrance to an amusement park or part of a drive-in theatre.

Then along came the auto-rickshaws... lavishly decorated in plastic flowers and as shiny as the personalities of the young men driving them. For Rs.30 they drove us up the steep hill which is inaccessible by cars and tour buses and deposited us at the bottom of the steep sandstone stairs that lead to the Buland Darwaza — “The Gate Of Magnificence”.

The short journey provided views of the sun rising above the misty city below, a little talk by the driver about the history of this great place and some information about the outstanding knowledge possessed by his “cousin-brother-tour-guide” who promptly met us at the conclusion of the ride.

The early morning cool made for a comfortable climb up the stairs and we were greeted at the wide platform of the entrance by several local vendors providing lassi and water from large terracotta pots and freshly cut fruits and vegetables.

Fatehpur Sikri, meaning “Victorious Place (at Sikri)” was chosen by Akbar to be his dual capital along with Agra. His inclusionary reputation is reflected throughout this multi-purpose complex which once contained palaces, masjids, audience halls, residences, gardens and pools. Its architectural style is also multi-faceted with Muslim, Hindu and Jain influences. The fort not only was home to his royal household but also his Hindu and Muslim ministers, his harem and members of the Muslim clergy.

Although the fort was abandoned towards the end of the 16th Century, the vivid colours of the building contained within it, the countryside surrounding it and the sky above it almost convince you that there is still his regal presence here. The majority of the buildings inside the fort, including the impressive Panch Mahal or five-tiered palace, are made from the red, pink and brown-hued sandstone found in the surrounding area. However, the courtyard is dominated by the stark white marble mausoleum built to honour the Sufi Saint, Salim Chisti.

Stories are still told today about how Akbar himself had taken the blessing of the Sikri based saint when he was unable to have children. Shortly after, when a son was born to his wife Jodhaa Bai, he moved his court to Sikri and built the fort Fatehpur. The mausoleum was built after the saint’s death to honour him and to provide a place of pilgrimage. It is still visited by locals and tourists in the belief that the Sufi saint will also grant them their wishes.

Small pieces of yellow, orange and red string are distributed free of cost by hawkers within the complex for visitors to tie on the large, intricate marble Jalis which showcase some of the most elaborate and beautiful marble cut-work windows of the Mughal period. The string is said to represent your wish and will be tied with the saint’s spirit. However, the many hawkers outside try to convince you that a string is not quiet enough and that you should purchase anything from a handkerchief to a glittery blanket to then throw over the saint’s tomb. The price for these items range from Rs.200 to Rs.3,000!

On visits to the nearby Taj Mahal, one can either be completely awestruck by the monument and spend time just standing and staring or be consumed by a frenzy of walking, photo taking, questioning of the tour guide and generally taking in the detail. The experience of being at Fatehpur Sikri differs from that of being at the great Taj Mahal because the visitor is immediately taken back to not only an era or incident or relationship, but a way of life which is long lost but still so fascinating to us today.

Entering through the grand gates and walking around the city, you can see and feel how life once must have been and you can imagine with ease how simple daily routines were carried out by the former inhabitants.

Whether you are aware of this place through history lessons at school, or have seen depictions of it in recent cinematic offerings, a visit here is truly worthwhile. Fatehpur Sikri offers not only some of the spectacular elements and grandeur of the Taj Mahal but also is a proud memento of a bold leader and his diverse community which represented this nation at that time and thankfully even now.

to Fatehpur Sikri.

Highway between Fatehpur Sikri and Agra.

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