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Mughal memento

Stand in the courtyard of Fatehpur Sikri for a feel of the enormity and grandeur of Akbar’s rule



Multi purpose The complex once contained palaces, masjids, audience halls, residences, gardens and pools

If “Jodhaa-Akbar” whetted your appetite for the splendours of the Mughal era, take a short detour from the tourist trail around Agra and head to Fatehpur Sikri. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is one of the most splendid and intriguing of Emperor Akbar’s legacies.Located in the state of Uttar Pradesh, this magnificent “deserted city” was once the seat of the 16th Century Mughal Emperor, Akbar, and is 40 km drive from Agra. Having no expectations about what lay ahead, there was a sense of intrigue on sighting the high walls of the fort which hinted at the scale of the ancient complex.

Then along came the auto-rickshaws. For Rs. 30 they drove us up the steep hill and deposited us at the bottom of the steep sandstone stairs that lead to the Buland Darwaza — “The Gate Of Magnificence”.

The short journey provided views of the sun rising above the misty city below. Fatehpur Sikri, meaning “Victorious Place (at Sikri)” was chosen by Akbar to be his dual capital along with Agra. His inclusionary reputation is reflected throughout this multi-purpose complex which once contained palaces, masjids, audience halls, residences, gardens and pools. Its architectural style is also multi-faceted with Muslim, Hindu and Jain influences. The fort not only was home to his royal household but also his Hindu and Muslim ministers, his harem and members of the Muslim clergy.

Although the fort was abandoned towards the end of the 16th Century, the vivid colours of the building contained within it, the countryside surrounding it and the sky above it almost convince you that there is still his regal presence here.

The majority of the buildings inside the fort, including the impressive Panch Mahal or five-tiered palace, are made from the red, pink and brown-hued sandstone found in the surrounding area. However, the courtyard is dominated by the stark white marble mausoleum built to honour the Sufi Saint, Salim Chisti.

Stories are still told today about how Akbar himself had taken the blessing of the Sikri based saint when he was unable to have children. Shortly after, when a son was born to his wife Jodhaa Bai, he moved his court to Sikri and built the fort Fatehpur. The mausoleum was built after the saint’s death to honour him and to provide a place of pilgrimage. Small pieces of yellow, orange and red string are distributed free of cost by hawkers within the complex for visitors to tie on the large, intricate marble Jalis which showcase some of the most elaborate and beautiful marble cut-work windows of the Mughal period. The string is said to represent your wish and will be tied with the saint’s spirit. The experience of being at Fatehpur Sikri differs from that of being at the great Taj Mahal because the visitor is immediately taken back to not only an era or incident or relationship, but a way of life which is long lost but still so fascinating to us today.

Fatehpur Sikri is a proud memento of a bold leader and his diverse community which represented this nation at that time and thankfully even now.

BHANU MATHI MOHAN

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