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COLOURS OF CHETTINAD Indulge in the luxury of a bygone era

From behind all this emerged the seven decades old mansion, recommended by many when I was in search of heritage hotels in Karaikudi. Freshly painted it belied my impression of the age old Chettiar mansions of a bygone era.

Driving into portico instantly provided a cool escape from the merciless sun beating down. And in no time lost, I stepped into a whole new world of experience, in a land frozen in time.

The light yellow white washed building from outside was in total contrast to what my eyes encountered inside. A spic and span rectangular room – polished to a glistening effect – with black and white marble flooring, tall and aesthetic wooden-framed windows, exquisitely carved teakwood ceiling, the majestic black granite pillars, all combined to make the reception with a few ethnic bamboo chairs thrown in.

Built in 1939 by a father for his daughter, Visalakshi, (hence the name Visalam), the home in many ways lives and breathes Chettinad history. But interestingly, it was never used to live in by the members of the famous Kottaiyur Chettiar family. It was used to only showcase marriage dowries and members came together only for weddings, betrothals, birthdays and temple festivals.

That was till 2005 when the Kerala-based Casino Group of Hotels (CGH) leased Visalam to convert it into a heritage hotel.

The mansion with its 20-odd rooms, large raised thinnais (platforms), massive storerooms, long corridors, huge kitchens, high ceilings, open-to-sky courtyards with the typical feel of spaciousness reminds you of the Chettinad craftsmanship and how human dwellings can be in absolute harmony with nature.

Retaining the natural flow of air, water and light through out the 1.5 acre plot, 16 rooms have been converted for “experience holidays” with slight modifications and modern amenities.

Every step taken inside leaves you gaping at the expensive Belgian mirrors, intricately engraved Burma teakwood doors, silken smooth walls made with lime and mortar and polished with egg white, the awesome 100 feet long teak beams supporting the roofs, the original two feet long heavy iron key to the main doors. You feel history is playing hide and seek. With tradition effectively balancing modernity, you just need to pause a while to discover and understand the grandeur and vibrant culture of the yore.

Every detail in the walls, windows, doors, furniture, utensils is a seamless blend of the place and moment. The hotel has taken care to maintain the huge copper and brass utensils, the giant sized grinding stones and pounders. They line the courtyards as endearing relics of the past. Each room is elegantly equipped with a fine combination of antique and sleek furniture.

Other facilities include a swimming pool, a well-stocked library and recreation room and cultural programmes in the evenings for the guests.

“We want to take our guests beyond history and help them connect to the quintessence of the Chettinad land. They celebrate simple joys in the interactive kitchen and enjoy the sheer luxury of simplicity and comfort here,” says the Assistant General Manager, Johny Peter.

Since food and feasting are an integral part of Chettinad life, much focus is on the cuisine. “Most restaurants serve oily hot food smothered with masalas and added colours in the name of Chettinad food. We offer real cuisine of the Nagarathar Chettiars who were originally vegetarians and given their overseas trade links perfected the blend of local and the global in their food.”

Visalam is lucky in having Pandiammal blessed with an inborn talent of making true and mouth-watering Chettinad food. She has no degree or diploma in culinary science or any formal training in catering. In fact, she had joined the hotel as a helper three years ago. But whenever an opportunity came her way, she never missed the chance to lay out a typical Chettinad menu. She caught the attention of the hotel administrators and was made the chief chef. Today, tourists, majority of them foreigners, leave with a lingering taste of dishes prepared by Pandiammal, a school drop-out and not even a native of Kandaukathan. Marriage brought her here and her dedication and commitment has seen her excel. But she says humbly,”I don’t do anything extraordinary. It is just the proportion and mixing of the masalas that do wonders to any dish.”

Kanadukathan near Karaikudi is two hours drive from Madurai and Tiruchi, which also have the nearest airports. It is two-and-a-half hours from Thanjavur. There is a direct train connection to Karaikudi from Tiruchi.

There are three classifications. High season from October to March, Rs. 13,000 plus tax for double occupancy. Peak season (which are certain houseful days during these months) Rs. 14,500 plus tax. Remaining months off season rate Rs.8,500 plus tax. For reservation, call on 04565-273301 or email visalam@cghearth.com

No Chettinad experience is complete without a visit to the streets lined by palatial homes. A walk through the Kanadukathan heritage zone is highly recommended. Or a bullock cart ride to catch a glimpse of laid back village life. A visit to sari weaving centres and tile manufacturing units is organised by the hotel. Shopping at the local market is a leisure option. Hotel Visalam is also an ideal stop-over on the temple circuit of Palani, Madurai, Rameswaram, Tiruchi and Thanjavur.

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