Features: Magazine | Literary Review | Life | Metro Plus | Open Page | Education Plus | Book Review | Business | SciTech | NXg | Friday Review | Cinema Plus | Young World | Property Plus | Quest | Folio |

The darkness blinds, and it is damp and misty. The silence is mesmerising. There’s a slight rustle in the grass, and then, everything is still. In the mist, shadowy forms appear.

I stifle a yawn and squint through the darkness, wondering if the shadows are of man or beast. The trees look hazy and the blurred outlines of the forms appear closer. It is comforting to know that I am not alone.

We are a motley crowd of wildlife enthusiasts gathered from across the country, making polite conversation in the wee hours of the morning. We are in Kaziranga National Park waiting for the elephants to lug us through the tall grass.

The silence is broken by a loud trumpet. A herd, including a couple of calves who totter beside their mothers, soon gathers. The stars look down on us as we wait for our turns to mount the elephant. The mahouts cajole the animals a bit and we are all set to encounter the one-horned rhinoceros.

It is still dark as we merge with the mist. The expedition is almost surreal as we cut through the tall dry grass which dwarfs us. And then, there is a hush.

A rhinoceros stares at the elephant and poses for the camera. I alternate between the video and the digital camera, when there is chaos.

The rhino charges at the elephant, which, in turn, strikes back, almost throwing all of us down. Thankfully, the mahout holds on to the elephant. Another rustle later, the rhinoceros retreats into the grass.

The expedition continues. There are more rhinoceros, some sleeping, some shying away from us. Our mahouts say these burly fellows are vegetarians and are mild as sheep, but it’s difficult to believe that.

Streaks of light brighten the marshes as the birds wake up and the sun clumsily rises through the misty clouds. Located on the banks of the river Brahmaputra, the swampy marshes of Kaziranga are home to the one-horned Indian rhinoceros.

Over a thousand of them live here, with tigers, elephants, gaurs and some amazing species of birds. Stretching over 400 sq km, the park is a World Heritage Site and a tiger reserve as well.

More than 100 years old, the park owes its protected status to Mary Curzon, who, in 1904, requested her husband and Viceroy, Lord Curzon, to set up a national park to protect the species.

Kaziranga has its share of myths and legends, but there is hardly anything wild about them. There is a romantic story about a couple, Kazi and Ranga, who disappeared into the forest to escape their parents’ wrath.

Another legend refers to the association with the Karbis, an ethnic group who lived here. It is believed that a woman named Kajir once ruled over the area. More stories are narrated around the campfire in the evening as we warm ourselves and watch folk dancers dance the night away.

Another morning dawns and we are in an open jeep with an impressive burly guard, seeking more encounters. As we negotiate a sharp turn, a tusker ahead of us shoves its body into the bushes. A loud trumpet forces our driver to stop the jeep. The guard steps out only to realise that over a dozen elephants are staging a dharna of sorts. Trumpets punctuate the air. The guard decides to burn some grass, hoping the elephants will flee. They don’t oblige. This is their domain and we are the intruders. It’s ironical that we chase and become the chased.

Kaziranga is in Assam, and Jorhat (84 km) is the nearest railway station. Or, drive down from Guwahati (217 km), four hours away. The main gate is at Kohara and there are several resorts around the place. Bon Habi Resort and Wild Grass are recommended. The best time to visit Kaziranga is November to May. The park is usually closed during the monsoons when it gets flooded.

Printer friendly page  
Send this article to Friends by E-Mail