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Historical The Chittorgarh fort is witness to the spirit of the Rajputs

Two major attacks — by Allauddin Khilji in 1303, and Bahadur Shah, the Sultan of Gujarat in 1535 — damaged it, but Akbar’s assault in 1568 was the worst.

Even whatever is left of the original fort looks beautiful. And, there are more than 50 view points — from Lakhotabari in the North to Chittori (Mohar) Magri in the South — to take in the sights.

I first head towards Padmini Mahal, named after the beautiful Rani Padmini. It is said that Allauddin Khilji saw the married Padmini’s reflection in the waters of the palace tank and demanded her hand.

This resulted in an attack, and the brave Rajput men tried to defend the fort. When defeat was imminent, Padmini committed ‘Jauhar’ along with 16,000 Rajput women on August 25, 1303, and the men rode out to a fight until death.

Nearby is the Kalika Mandir, dating back to 8th or 9th Century AD. A mela is held here during Navaratri.

Near this is the nine-storeyed Vijay Stambh. The 157 steps lead you to a height of 122 feet.

Colonnaded porticos and sculptures of mythological subjects engage your attention as you ascend the Vijay Stambh.

The tower was built over eight years (1440-1448) by Rana Kumba to commemorate his victory over the forces of Malwa in 1437. Next on my agenda is the Meera Mandir. The temple is simple, and has idols of Krishna with a basuri (flute) and Meera singing a bhajan.

The adjoining Kumba Shyam Mandir (built in 1449 AD by Rana Khumba) has a varaha idol, and many figurines are carved on the doorway, roof and pillars. Some scenes from the 15th century Mewar are also depicted.

Those who feel that North Indian temples lack intricate carvings must see Shringar Chavari — a wonderful blend of Rajput and Jain architecture. Originally a Jain temple, part of it was later used as marriage pandal (Chabari) for Kumbha’s daughter.

Rana Kumbha’s palace is the biggest at Chittaurgarh. Some historians say that Padmini’s Jauhar took place in one of the cellars here.

There is another six-storey tower, Kirti Stambh (22 mts high), dedicated to Adinath; it contains figures from the Jain Pantheon.

And, do visit the government museum, Fateh Prakash Mahal, accessed through seven gates, each of which is called a ‘pol’.

They are named after Rama (there’s even a small temple for him), Laxman, Ganesh, Hanuman and the like.

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