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That’s grandeur!


FATEH NIWAS PALACE

Udaipur, Rajasthan

USP: Life comes king size

Watching the sun set on the Pichola Lake from the ‘jharokha’ of my luxurious room in Fateh Prakash Palace my pen started itching to go into the realm of lines where deadlines don’t matter. It throbbed for a while, but as the night enveloped Jagmandir, I was reminded that this is the island (in the midst of the lake) where celebrities assemble to marry off their sons and daughters. And the journalist in me took over.

Ringed by the Aravallis, Udaipur — you realise the moment you enter the place — is soaked in royalty, and the City Palace Complex (Fateh Niwas is a part of it) defines it. But unlike most royal houses of Rajasthan, here the royalty doesn’t look down upon you from one corner, nor does it make you feel that your pocket is keeping them going. Here the splendour is seamlessly built into the hospitality of the staff.

With its distinctive turrets and majestic domes, Fateh Prakash Palace is a Grand Heritage Palace built along the shores of Lake Pichola. Named after one of the Mewar dynasty’s greatest rulers, Maharana Fateh Singh, the palace is a repository of exquisite chandeliers and rare paintings, unique crystal and porcelain collections. The tree-lined Dovecote, with its lake front rooms, is a treat to watch and experience. For Delhiites who calculate in square feet for an illusion of space, since square yards make a smaller numeral, the spacious rooms come as a pleasant surprise. No wonder the Palace has won the National Tourism Award for the best heritage hotel from the Department of Tourism, Government of India, more than once.


Next morning I decided to experience Jagmandir. There is a boat service to ferry you to the island-palace.

Sitting at the colonnaded restaurant Darikhana, I discovered the myth is that Jagmandir’s Gola Mahal and garden courtyard inspired Moghul Emperor Shah Jehan to build the Taj Mahal. Today Jagmandir plays host to esteemed corporates and celebrities from all over the world.

For cocktails, theme-dinners, musical soirees and wedding ceremonies, there isn’t a more glittering venue than Jagmandir. The last wedding, I was told, was of Praful Patel’s daughter. Realising how the definition of royalty has changed over the years, I returned to the comforts of my room thinking how the kings lived. Help was round the corner.


The City Palace Museum explained it all. It was where 23 generations of the Maharanas of Mewar lived.

The museum explains how in 1553 Rana Udai Singh laid the foundation of Udaipur which went on to become the Venice of the East. Badi pol, torans, tripolia, Manek Chowk, Haldighati kaksh, Dilkhushal Mahal…all have a story hidden in them. There are lessons to be learnt for those who call Haldighati a communal battle. If Akbar had Man Singh, Rana Pratap had Hakim Khan Sur on his side.

With enough food for thought, I rushed to the Gallery Restaurant to satisfy the support system. The place serves exquisite Continental food and traditional English tea between 3 and 5 p.m. Through its large arched windows, I looked out on to Lake Pichola, the island palaces and the ancient Aravalli mountain range.

This time the pen started to play truant.

( anuj@thehindu.co.in)

ANUJ KUMAR

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