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Just in the genes

Revamped Try the new additions at Baluchi

“All counting, some 300 members of my family are chefs,” asserts Irshad Ahmed Qureshi. He is a chef through lineage and passion. And is now the new Master Chef at Baluchi. This Indian speciality restaurant at the InterContinental The Grand, Barakhamba Road, is holding its own despite the major overhauling at the hotel. Try not to be deterred by the gaping renovations and the exposed cabling. The restaurant is still worth a visit.

Quershi underscores, “I’m from Lucknow proper. People live in the neighbouring towns but claim to be from Lucknow.” He adds proudly, “I live in the heart of the city.” He started working in the kitchen, as a young boy, separating the bones and whole spices from the cooked meat. He brings his ancestral knowledge of Mughlai and Lucknowi cuisine to the restaurant.

The revamped menu has some new vegetarian and non-vegetarian dishes, including chapli kabab, paneer kali mirch aur hara pyaz and galouti kabab. A vast spread is laid out to introduce the chef to his clientele. The meal opens with a glass of ananas ka panna. This roasted pineapple drink doesn’t have the maza of the original green mango panna, and is rather insipid in comparison. The galawat ke kabab are the real deal. Its butter-soft inside is perfectly offset by the lightly crisp outer covering. For the vegetarians, the peas kabab is equally wonderful. It looks green but the taste is well matured.

The kadhai gosht kali mirch is not remarkable by any stretch of the imagination. The chef is proud of it, but some of his other preparations are far superior. The meat is not tender enough and the curry is ill defined. The gucchi paneer ka korma has a smooth saffron-based gravy. But the taste and the texture of the morel mushrooms are overwhelmed and unidentifiable.

The biryani however is excellent. Each ingredient and spice is well defined. Qureshi explains, “We use very little spice to make sure all the flavours come out.” This dish is testimony to Qureshi’s expertise and knowledge. It has the true eloquence of Lucknowi cuisine — the judicious and never overpowering use of spices.

The phirni is soothing in its mildness. It is less sweet and serves as a prudent end to a fulfilling meal.

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