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The Moon is rising

If there is one place that showcases the changing face of opulent Delhi, it is Khan Market. Three decades ago, it was almost a local market for the neighbouring areas. It offered everything the middleclass in the adjoining residential colonies neede d — from white keds, brown covering paper and HB pencils to medicines, groceries and cloth. There were a few vegetable shops which were for the exclusive use of foreigners, for they sold fruits and vegetables at a price that India had still not dreamt of.

If you go to Khan Market now, you will find it difficult to connect it with the old market. The old shops have given way to global brands. Khan Market now spells money — and in capital letters. But there is a silver lining — and that’s the growth of eateries in the market. There was a time when restaurants just didn’t do well there, possibly because Pandara Road Market — with its old circle of established restaurants — was right next door.

But now there are at least 10 very successful restaurants in the market place. And every other day, a new one opens up. So, to get to the point (excuse me, but I do get a little nostalgic about the old Khan Market at times), I went to look up a new restaurant. Called Ginger Moon, this is located in the middle lane — and is close to Khan Chacha’s kabab corner. The décor is pleasing, with a nice red-and-cream interior. With 36 covers, it’s not very big. If you sit by the window, you can see life as it moves in Khan Market. The menu looked good, and there was a section that dealt solely with Singaporean food. I, however, went in for Chinese — and asked for a plate of double woked crispy shredded lamb with honey (Rs.295), slow fried crispy fish fillet in a hot garlic sauce (Rs.385) and lemon glazed chicken (Rs.285), to be eaten with steamed rice (Rs.90). The bill, I may add here, comes with service charges.

The food turned out to be rather good. I am an old fanatic when it comes to crispy honey lamb — and never fail to order it wherever I go. This was one of the best crispy lambs I had ever eaten. The lamb was truly crisp and not even a bit soggy. The chilly and honey quotients were complementary, and just right. And what made the dish even better was that the lamb had been cooked with rings of onions. The onion was soft and did a tango with the crispy meat. Likewise, the fish was very good. The sauce was nicely garlicky, but not red hot.

The fish was soft with a crunchy coating, and it went well with the boiled rice. That was the good part. About the glazed lemon, I fear it was a shikanji reduction — a very tart and very sweet sauce that would have made a great lime cordial for a gin. The sauce was too overpowering and the chicken was too bland. This is a dish I will only order at gun-point, and even then grumblingly. What I will order, however, is what two Bengali women at the next table were relishing — the server later told me it was called Phoenix veg. I was tempted to ask them about it, but my good upbringing stopped me from addressing strangers. Yes, Ginger Moon is a place I shall visit again. The Phoenix veggies beckon.

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