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A place to stay

Photos: K. Ananthan

A slice of the past Wallwood Garden, and Manjit Bawa’s art on the wall

Thanks to a tardy driver, Neemrana’s Wallwood Garden boasts of a Manjit Bawa original in its living room.

The story goes that while awaiting his ride he decided to use the living room wall as a canvas to kill time.

And of course, it is a 19th Century bungalow with some history. It was owned by a Scottish Major General who named it Blair Athol (his village in Scotland). He sold it to a British couple after the First World War, who ran it as a boarding house and subsequently it came to be owned by tea companies.

One can’t help but feel grateful to the Neemrana ‘non-hotel’ chain that has taken it upon itself to identify heritage buildings and convert them into places to stay for those who feel something for ‘history and ambience’.

At least, it keeps land sharks from stomping out all traces of the past from the face of the earth. Neemrana has its imprint in heritage properties dating back to the 14th Century!

At Wallwood the most difficult decision you may have to make is whether to go for the room with a view of flowers, and the fruit nursery of Sims Park, or pick one with the antique four poster bed (you have to haul yourself up) and loads of ambience. There is something so romantic about telling people to meet up with you at Acacia, or Pine, or Jacaranda, etc. They are the charmingly named rooms and suites.

It is a nice mix of the colonial and the Indian. Ikat bedspreads and durries don’t take away at all from the overall mood.

The ‘sun lounge’ is bright and cheerful and serves as an informal dining area with an outdoorsy feel with its tall glass windows and all that natural light, and, the company of buzzing bees. If you prefer to dress for dinner, there is a formal dining room too, gargoyle-carved chairs and all.

Old fashioned door knobs in well worn brass, paintings of indeterminate age and origin on the walls, fire places, and of course comfy sagging couches that don’t care if you put your feet up, all add up to the coziness.

The simple food enhances that ‘non-hotel’ feeling and the staff is unfailingly courteous and smile even after you have requested them for your ninth cup of tea (they have a delicious in-house blend).

The ‘ye olde England’ feeling spills out even on your walks as you meander past long winding drives to fairytale cottages with names such as ‘Faraway’ and ‘Fairbrooke’.

One has the irresistible urge to rush in and peek into the mullioned windows, all without exception, curtained in lace.

There are any number of drunken paths to tempt you down them, and all the ones we took had satisfyingly spectacular views.

And, lying back on the four poster, you can allow them to ‘flash upon that inward eye’…with some tea of, course. The property has deluxe and standard rooms, and the tariff varies depending on which part of the year you choose to visit.

The rates for the standard room range from Rs. 1,750 to Rs. 2,250, while the deluxe room costs anywhere between Rs. 2,000 and Rs. 2,500. Beakfast, lunch and dinner cost Rs. 100, Rs. 250 and Rs. 300, respectively a head.

Sightseeing tours are also organised on request.

How to get there: Wallwood Garden falls on Kotagiri Road, just a stone’s throw away from Sims Park.

For reservations and details, call 080-41144725/098455-43841 or visit www.neemranahotels.com

PANKAJA SRINIVASAN

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