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One desires for Chapora

Photo: Resmi jaimon

Breathtaking Chapora Fort

Long stretches of white sands and coconut trees, paddy fields, an evening cruise on a lake — I live seeing all these in my home State — Kerala. And, on a trip to Goa, it did not make sense to see the same things again.

With two more days left of our holiday, and with no interest in taking a dip in the sea or idling away on the beaches, we ask a staff at Resort Mellorosa for an offbeat yet exotic location. He suggests Chapora fort, a must-see destination, famous on celluloid thanks to the path-breaking Dil Chhahta Hai. I flip through the brochures of a few travel agents. They weren’t offering this destination in their tour itinerary. We decide to go on our own.

Chapora is a small village. A lot of foreigners were chatting away and relaxing at the restaurants and several small shops. We get down at the fork-shaped junction a few metres away from Chapora Junction and the conductor assures us that it is just a two-minute walk to the fort.

There is no trace of human existence, and after 10 minutes of walking, we finally spot the fort. But, there’s more walking in store. At least, another 15 minutes. The fort looks vacant and doesn’t tempt me. However, my husband starts moving, and I join him. What a walk! The stones and the rocks are slippery and pull me down the steep slope. I dare to pride myself on my achievement of climbing a hill only after reaching the top. Gosh! How am I to climb down?

Take a break, I remind myself, and focus on history. Chapora fort was earlier known as Shahpura. It was built by Adil Shah of Bijapur in the 17th Century. The fort was a border post against Maratha invasions. However, it changed hands between the Marathas and the Portuguese, till the Portuguese abandoned it in 1892. We enter the fort only to see what remains after the ravages of time — all that remains are the walls and dry grass. The sun beats down hard and the deserted fort presents an eerier look.

We have some human company when a couple of foreign tourists come by. Escorting them are a young boy carrying bangles and another selling drinks and snacks, both conversing in English.

We move to the spot opposite the main entrance and land where the sequences in Dil Chahta Hai were shot. Suddenly, our perspective of Chapora Fort changes. We marvel at the unending view of the Arabian Sea and Morjim beach to the North — with long stretches of white sands and greenery.

The waves from the sea meet the Chapora River, which divides Morjim and Vagtor regions. Even in the sizzling sun, the cool breeze from the sea tempts you to stay longer. To the south of the fort is the Vagator beach with dense palm plantations. Further down, you can catch a glimpse of Anjuna beach.

We move around the fort area, climbing the walls, shooting pictures from various angles, looking down at the waves hitting the rocks, people taking a dip in the sea and the fishing boats bobbing by.

The one-and-a-half hours we spent at the fort are just not enough to take in the beauty of the red-laterite edifice. We decide to return again, this time just to visit Chapora, and take in the sunset from the fort, probably just like the rulers once did.

How to reach

Buses frequently ply between Mapusa and Chapora, a 40-minute journey. From Panaji, Chapora is a one-hour journey. Accommodation is also available at Vagator and Anjuna.

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