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Architectural wonders

Photo: Ashrafi S. Bhagath

Imposing and awe-inspiring The Shiva temple at Gangaikondacholapuram

The towers or vimanas over the sanctum of South Indian temples have a distinct profile when compared to temples in the North. As one travels Southwards, the skyline is dotted with the ubiquitous gopurams. In thi s respect, the cultural history of temples in South India makes for a fascinating reading.

As an art student, studying the vernacular architectural terminologies was a daunting task. This exercise had to be mnemonic to have it registered in memory. Recently, Hayagriva Study Circle’s convenor Geeta Vasudevan had organised a Cholanadu study tour for a small group of ‘culture-vultures’ (as described by one member) for an insight into the royal temples of Thanjavur, Gangaikondacholapuram, Darasuram and Kodumbalur.

We were accompanied by historian and archaeologist Suresh, and the study opened knowledge space in not only appreciating the wonders of architecture, sculpture and painting, but also the breadth of the vision of the patrons and their creative abilities, challenging iconography and of course the power as emperors to achieve what they desired.

Our first destination was the 10th Century Brihadishwara Temple at Thanjavur; the royal city of the Cholas and Nayaks. Thanjavur is derived from Tanjan — an asura, who, according to local legend, devastated the neighbourhood, and was killed by Sri Anandavalli Amman and Vishnu. The historical and cultural narrative of the temple opened new vistas for us.

This royal temple was sustained by the donation of agricultural land in its vicinity and the revenue generated from it. Culturally, it marked a high moment in architecture, particularly in the structural innovation in the construction of the 190-feet vimana (it is based on the corbelling principle). The height of the Nandi in front of the mandapa was on the same level as the immense lingam in the sanctum. It was in this temple that the Devadasi cult was fostered.

If the architectural splendour and grandeur of the monument takes ones breath away, the complex and rich iconography articulates the powers of Lord Shiva. The magnificent geometry that manifests itself in plan, elevation and layout is an eloquent testimony to the vitality and vigour of King Raja Raja Chola.

As dusk approached and the glowing light of the setting sun settled on the monument, it was a dramatic moment. The tall vimana cast its long shadow and looked like a sentinel. We left the complex pondering on the immense creative impulse of Raja Raja Chola casting his benevolent gaze over his rich and prosperous empire.

Travelling about 80 km from Thanjavur, we reached Gangaikondacholapuram, the capital city of Rajendra Chola, son of Raja Raja Chola. The temple, in many respects, is a pleasant contrast to the one at Thanjavur. Its vimana has a sensuous curve, making it feminine and elegant. Yet, one cannot deny its rich iconography, representing the various manifestations of Shiva. Quiet Darasuram is 34 km from Thanjavur, and is the site of a later Chola temple — Airavateshwara by Rajendra Chola II. This temple, dedicated to Lord Shiva, is worshipped by Lord Indra’s elephant, Airavata. The beauty of this temple is resident in its intricate carvings and the representation of Periya Puranam, representing the lives of the 63 Nayanars.

Smaller compared to the other two, its rich carvings speak volumes about the imagination of Indian artisans. Incidentally, Darasuram is also a silk weaving centre.

Our last destination was Narthamalai and Kodumbalur. We visited Kodumbalur, a site of two early Chola temples, when the sun was low on the horizon. The two temples are rich in iconography, but no worship is conducted there. The place still has the plinths of other earlier temples, though.

Narthamalai is a site of the famous 9th Century temple complex known as Vijayalayacholeeswaram. Situated on a gentle sloping hill with a climb of about 1.5 km, this archaeological monument is transitional in style — moving from the Pallava to the Cholas. The scenery from the hilltop is breathtaking, as the eye skims acres and acres of emerald green paddy fields and pools of shimmering deep green placid waters. The gentle breeze whispered through the rustling palm fronds, creating music that soothed the spirit. .

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