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On top of the world!

Ice, ice everywhere, and scenes straight out of a fairy tale

PHOTOS: PRIYADARSHINI PAITANDY

Spectacular vistas On the way to Lauterbrunnen

Normally, my day starts with breakfast and a cup of coffee. Today is an exception. It’s freezing cold here at Engelberg and I have to replace my morning cuppa with a bottle of brandy. All set to head to Junfraujoch, I wrap myself in many layers of warm clothes, scarves, mittens et al.

Jungfraujoch, known in tourist parlance as the Top of Europe, is 11,000 feet above sea level. The trip to Jungfraujoch starts with a scenic drive to Lauterbrunnen. Misty valleys, green slopes, the snow-peaked Alps coyly peeping at us from behind the clouds, pools of snow lethargically spread over trees and vales, meadows dotted with wooden cottages —its surreal, quite like a scene out of a fairy tale.

I half expect to see Hansel and Gretel hopping about, feasting on a house of Swiss chocolate. As the road swerves, the meadows disappear and a glistening green lake swims into view. That’s Lake Lucerne, the largest lake of Switzerland fed by the melting snow from the Alps. Due to global warming, the gorgeous lake’s water level is said to have dropped.

Riding up the hill



The cog wheel train on its way to Jungfraujoch

Once we reach Lauterbrunnen, we board a cog wheel train and begin our ascent to the Top of Europe. The hour long steep uphill ride is every photographers delight. ‘Click!’, ‘Click!’, ‘Say Cheese!’ and ‘Click!’ is all I can hear around me. Green fields speckled with bright yellow flowers run alongside the train for miles and as the train turns, there is a sudden transition from green to white and all you see is pristine snow.

The chugging stops and resumes after we change trains at Kleine Scheidegg. Shortly, we reach the tunnel-like Jungfraujoch station and make our way to the Ice Palace. Intricately carved ice sculptures adorn this place. I can’t stop giggling as I see a few people sliding on the slippery ice floor.

Once out of the ice palace, I notice that it is snowing outside. Excited, I rush to the open icy plateau and squeal in glee when snow lands on my black coat. It’s freezing cold and almost impossible to stand there any longer. But braving the temperature (-11 degrees), I pull out my camera and manage to pose and smile in spite of my rapidly-chattering teeth.

Splendid views

Next, we follow arrows to reach the Sphinx, an observation tower that offers splendid views of France, Germany and Italy. But, even the bright yellow arrows and promise of more snow don’t do much to keep me from the souvenir shop, which lures me with its bright shiny display. However, the kohl-eyed assistant in the store isn’t very pleasant — like a teacher in a Math class, she admonishes me when I am unable to calculate the change. Hey, it’s not like I convert Euros to Swiss Francs every day! Now, a little word of advice — no matter what your travel agent says, keep a few Francs with you because it can be quite a hassle to convert, especially when you have an unhelpful, impatient cashier and a queue behind you.

As I prance out with my new acquisitions I notice my group is gone. Panicking, I pace towards the Sphinx, a little breathless. At such high altitudes, it’s advisable not to run or walk too fast, especially if you have a breathing or heart problem. However, there are arrangements for oxygen in case one feels too ill.



The snowy environs

After a few more turns and a ride up a super-fast lift I reach the Sphinx, which stands at a height of 11,760 feet. The Sphinx has a huge dome and is said to have laboratories, workshop and terraces for scientific experiments, and a weather observation station.

As mentioned, the views are said to be great, but as it had rained earlier in the day and is misty, all I can see is a blanket of snow and white clouds in front of me, just the kind of stuff dreams are made of.

Jungfraujoch is also a great place for skiing. Those with a skill for the sport can have an amazing time gliding on acres and acres of snow, while people who can’t even balance themselves on skis (like yours truly) can contend themselves by looking at the skiers and the trails they leave behind!

PRIYADARSHINI PAITANDY

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