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MEMORIES OF MADRAS
Post from the past
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P. Subramanian on the city's struggling labour force, middle-class dreams and the fine art of letter-writing
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Photo: The Hindu Archives
Tracking lives Central Station in 1963
Recollections of life in Madras
in the 1940s and 1950s
would be incomplete without
remembering the different
people who came
together to compose life as we
knew it. The poor from the villages
that bordered Madras used
to migrate to the city in search of
work. They came with nothing
from their homes - they bathed,
ate and slept on the railway platforms,
some on the pavements.
A few of them built houses near
the Cooum. They usually
worked as headload workers or
rickshaw and handcart pullers
in Kotwal Chavadi, where the
wholesale market used to be, before
it moved to Koyambedu.
It was a heart-rending sight -
bare-bodied men straining with
heavily-laden carts, two pulling
from the front, and two pushing
from behind, trying to push it up
the steps of the bridges in front
of the Central Station and near
Stanley Hospital, in the scorching
mid-day heat. Some of the
handcart pullers would tie a
sack-cloth around their feet.
The lower middle-classes,
usually employed in the government
offices or private
firms, had their own stories to
tell. Several of them were involved
in heavy debts, because
their expenditures on social
functions were high even by the
standards in those days. Back
then, government and departmental
co-operative societies
would offer long and shortterm
loans to the employees.
The queues were long. The
long-term loans were recovered
in 24 months, and the shortterm
ones from the subsequent
month's pay. But every month,
as soon as the statement of
recovery reached the societies,
the employees rushed to the
co-operative offices for another
short-term loan. And in case
this wasn't enough, there was
always the moneylender.
In the 1950s and well into
the 1960s, only the very rich
had telephones. The rest had to
go to the telegraph office, book
a trunk call and then settle
down for a wait that could last
for more than two hours. There
were two post-offices then, one
opposite the Beach Station, and
the other on G.N. Chetty Road
in T. Nagar - anytime you
walked by these streets, you
could hear the incessant clicks
and taps of the telegraph
machine.
The first theatre in the city
was actually inside the Post
Office on Mount Road. They
would screen silent pictures
there. It closed down only after
theatres such as Elphinstone
came up, several years later.
Back then, the matinee shows
in theatres were monopolised
by women. They would rush to
buy the tickets, which cost
about five annas, pawning brass
or copper tumblers. They
would hurry back afterwards;
they had to make it home before
their husbands returned
from work.
Everyone wrote letters in
those days, and a letter from
Kashmir to Kerala would take
about seven days to be delivered,
snaking its way down
slowly on a train; though in a
lot of ways, the postal system
was much better than it is now.
The letters that were not delivered
were returned to what
used to be called the Dead
Letter Office.
Between them, the staff of
this department knew almost
every Indian language, because
they had to decipher illegible
addresses scrawled in strange
scripts. But nobody liked the
name of the department - after
a lot of negotiation, it was
changed to the Returned Letter
Office.
The post-boxes would be
cleared at six in the evening,
the letters placed in sacks, and
loaded into the trains for the
Railway Mail Service. All the
sorting was done in the train
compartments, by the dim
lights that flickered half-heartedly
from the ceiling. To read
the addresses in this light was a
terrible thing, and in the shadows,
you could see people
hunched over the letters, trying
to fathom where each letter
must go.
* * *
P. SUBRAMANIAN Born in 1930 in Kandanur,
Sivaganga district, is a printer,
publisher and translator. He has translated
the works of Daniel Defoe, Lewis
Carroll, Jules Verne and Henrik Ibsen
into Tamil. The Writers' Workshop has
published an anthology of Tamil short
stories translated by him, under the
title Contemporary Tamil Stories.
***
I REMEMBER
On the day of Jawaharlal
Nehru's death, the only way
to get somewhere was to
walk. Every bus in the city
had stopped running. Almost
all the shops pulled
down their shutters as a
mark of mourning. The city
ground to a complete halt,
but there was not a single
untoward incident of violence.
And since most of the
restaurants unusually remained
shut, it was also the
first time that several men
in the city resorted to
cooking!
As told to CHITHIRA VIJAYKUMAR
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