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Some Indian desert?

A trip to Jaisalmer in Rajasthan is a trip to the border of the Thar — beyond the city is the bleak and beautiful yellow expanse of camel land! The Sonar Kila or Golden Fort defines Jaisalmer which lay on the prosperous Spice Route. Its balconies (jharokhas) are made of finely carved yellow sandstone in lace-like patterns. The experience within the fort, said to be the second oldest in Rajasthan after Chittorgarh, is quite different from the one at Mehrangarh in Jodhpur. For, this is a living fort and not a museum, with many families residing within its sprawling premises.

As we enter we see vendors displaying their colourful ware of large puppets and embroidered hangings on the fort walls. In the narrow lanes within are small shops that stock the spirit of Rajasthan — painted wooden artefacts, colourful paintings and turbans of bandini and lehariya.

There are quite a few Jain temples located within the fort. The faces of the marble images of the Thirthankaras radiate peace while the pillars and ceilings have a profusion of delicate carvings. Down narrow steps in the temple of Sambhavnathji and we enter the Gyan Bhandar, the small chamber where books and palm-leaf manuscripts, some dating to the 12th century, are stored.

The many-floored former palace at the entrance occupies a chunk of the fort. The city was founded by Rawal Jaiswal in 1156 A.D., and in the palace you see portraits of the former rulers, the coronation throne and artefacts. Some of the royal robes are also displayed, including the enormous one of a Rawal, who was over seven-foot tall! The image of Goddess Parvati is strikingly beautiful.

The local resident who accompanies us is keen to point out photographs of Jaya and Amitabh Bachchan being received by the present Rawal during a visit some years ago. “The Rawal doesn't live here,” he tells you regretfully.

Jaisalmer, under many of its brave rulers, is said to have repelled invaders from Afghanistan. Perhaps it was this steely determination of its inhabitants that made Jaisalmer thrive, despite the harsh climate and perennial lack of water, and adorn itself with beautiful architecture.

By evening we are in a complete change of scene as we drive towards the desert. During the mandatory camel ride we view the sunset — the great crimson orb slowly disappearing behind the dunes. Night sees us in a desert camp. This is tourism at its best with the ceilings of the luxurious tents covered in golden yellow textile with floral Mughal motifs.

Soon we are out under the stars seated around a cheerful bonfire. Folk dancers belt out tunes that soar across the sands while the dancers clad in ghagras and heavy jewellery whirl around in increasing tempo. But we are horrified when a woman artist — hardly more than a girl — does bizarre feats such as lifting razor blades with her eyelashes and lips! The invitation to dine takes us to tables laden with a sumptuous Rajasthani spread – dal baati churma, ker sangri, gattey ki sabzi and roti.

Daybreak, and it is time to move on. We see a complete outbreak of a “fort epidemic” – buildings, massive and small, disguised as forts, have come up along the countryside to woo tourists. We make our way to the abandoned Paliwal village before visiting a couple of Jain temples and then to Aakal where fossilised trees millions of years old are found displaying their stony façade. A visit to the Jain havelis is a must-do.

These residences with their intricately worked jharokhas built by the wealthy Patwa merchant in the 19th Century are spectacular. As the train leaves Jaisalmer, we are sure our memories too will be gilded by the Midas-like touch of this unique city.

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