Mortals call them rivers

In a land called Paradise, often it is ancient lore that provides the most satisfying answers to the natural world. It is in this treasury of tales that one learns the story of the Tista and the Rangit, says ARUNDHATI RAY.

THE original inhabitants of Sikkim, the Lepchas, called their land Nye-me-el or Paradise. And as visitors to this stunningly beautiful region in the Eastern Himalaya discover, they were not exaggerating. Enclosed by mountains on the North, West and East and separated from West Bengal by the moody Rangit river in the South, this land-locked State contains within its 7,300 sq.km area amazing variations of altitude and, consequently, a fascinating spectrum of climactic zones, each a distinct biosphere of plant and animal life.

Melli near the Southern border of Sikkim, would have been yet another obscure little halting place, but for one detail: just outside the town is the confluence of Sikkim's two great waterways, the Tista and the Rangit. This spot is not just one of remarkable scenic beauty, it has tremendous significance for both the Lepchas and Nepalis. Every year around December or January the Lepchas celebrate the Feast of the River Gods. On this day people gather at the confluence of the two rivers and boys and girls take a holy dip and sing and dance late into the night recalling the love of the two rivers. The confluence is also a holy spot for Hindu Nepalis who, at Maghey Sankranti in January, celebrate the movement of the sun towards the Tropic of Cancer and the resultant change of seasons with a ceremonial bath.

Geologists hold that both rivers are formed as a result of melting glaciers and the drainage of alpine lakes. Yet, they cannot reach a consensus on the true source for either. Again, for all their theories of gradients and rock-types none of these really explain why the two rivers follow such different courses during their descent and yet will themselves to come together in a spectacular confluence near the town of Melli: an aquatic drama of turbulent jade-green waters, thunderous white surf and rushing currents set against the brooding, green backdrop of dense forests. But in a land where stars are Gods' laughter frozen in time, often it is ancient lore that provides the most satisfying answers to the natural world and it is in this treasury of tales that one learns the story of Tista and Rangit.

Once upon a time, long before the land of Sikkim had become filled with people and the first monastery was still a far away speck in history, high in the cloud-cloaked, snow-shrouded lap of the Himalayas two river spirits issued a playful challenge to each other: a race down to the distant plains to see who could flow faster. So wishing each other well, as good friends are wont to do even when they are competing against each other, the River God Rangit and the River Goddess Tista set off on their tumultuous course which would take them down to the verdant lowlands. This being the first time the two spirits would venture beyond the rarified environs of their home, each chose a guide for this long journey. Rangit chose for himself the Bird King and Tista decided to follow the Snake King.

True to the nature of his kind, the Snake King darted straight as an arrow down to the Plains, not looking left or right, but intent on reaching his destination. But the Bird King, flying down the mountainside would often get distracted by the inviting green forests, luscious fruit, a colourful flower. Other birds, strange insects all these caught his fancy and caused him to stop and stare, to divert from the straight path. Pursuing the Snake King, the Tista was soon in sight of the plains and though she knew she had won, her happiness gave way to concern as she waited and waited and still her beloved Rangit did not appear. He, in the meanwhile, was following the meandering, procrastinating Bird King, longing for his Tista yet bound to his guide. Then suddenly, at the edge of a precipice, Rangit sighted Tista far below him. Ashamed at having lost the race he threatened to overflow his banks but Tista begged him not to do so. Giving in to her entreaties, Rangit made his peace and finally, the two rivers fell into a long embrace and united at last flowed down to the plains never to be parted again.

For travellers, the confluence presents a choice. They can choose to go West taking Rangit for their guide and follow the river up into West Sikkim. Going this way they would go through the twin townships of Naya Bazaar and Jorethang, then up through the dense forests that surround Yoksum and the Pemayangtse Monastry, past the stunning Khechopiri Lake and beyond. In the highest sections, one travels through the Kanchendzonga National Park, one of the world's highest mountain parks.

But if they go eastwards, they follow the Tista, retracing its course, up through Gangtok, to Mangan and the alpine villages of Lachen and Lachung and beyond to the rarified heights of Thangu and the resplendent Lake Chho Lamo. The journey would take them through deep gorges and dense forests of Rhododendron, through the Shingba Rhododendron Sanctuary. This easterly course was the ancient trade route between India and Tibet. Today there are motorable roads right up to Lachung and Lachen, but the Tista accompanies modern day travellers throughout their journey just as she gave her constant companionship to those caravans of yore.

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