CUISINE
Vegetarian and South Indian
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SABITA RADHAKRISHNA looks at a new collection of recipes, which `aspiring cooks would enjoy'.
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WHEN someone has written an excellent cookbook which serves as a handbook for South Indian vegetarian traditional dishes, one looks forward to the next book by the same author. More often than not the second time around one cannot be guaranteed of a hit, but Chandra Padmanabhan in her book Southern Spice has come out with a winner. A sequel to her first book Dakshin, Padmanabhan takes a departure from the basic familiar recipes to her new collection of vegetarian recipes from the four Southern States — Andhra Pradesh, Karnataka, Kerala and Tamil Nadu.
The recipes are categorised in simple divisions — podis (powders), sambars and kozhambus (curries), rasams (South Indian lentil soups), poriyals and kootus (vegetable dishes, accompaniments to the main dish) rice dishes, snacks, sweets and other accompaniments like chutneys and so on. It would have probably made the book more interesting than it already is, by adding a note at the end of each recipe as to which region it comes from. We know that the "Kerala Inji Pulli — Ginger and Tamarind Curry — Kerala Style" (p.11), is a speciality from "God's Own Country", but we would like to know where the "Mambazha Kuzhambu — Ripe Mango and Pigeon Pea Curry" (p.13) among others comes from!
Brought out in a user friendly format, hard cover, and beautifully produced by Penguin Viking, Padmanabhan scores in her clarity of presentation and simplicity of style which aspiring cooks would enjoy. No one these days has the patience or time to wade through a complicated recipe with numerous ingredients and it is a pleasure to attempt recipes from Southern Spice. Only, it takes a fraction of time to register that pigeon peas are nothing but the good old toover dal, husked black beans are urad dal, husked Bengal gram is chana dal, husked green beans are moong dal ... but then the familiar names are clearly indicated below, so one has no right to claim confusion!
The cookbook indicates what the recipe generates, for instance green bean pancakes in the recipe gives you 10 to 12 numbers and the cooking time is 30 minutes, plus another 10 minutes for preparation. Of course it needs to be soaked overnight.
Recipes like these help one plan a meal better and since the end quantity is indicated, there is no scope for wastage nor underestimation.
If you are stuck deciding the daily menu or for special occasions, Padmanabhan's suggested menus at the end of the book are most helpful, with her listing of everyday fare, and buffet spreads. The glossary at the end of the book helps you to work out the ingredient which are given in both Hindi and Tamil besides English.
The rice dishes turn out very well if you follow the recipe precisely. I tried out "Kothamalli Sadam" for starters, as also the "Kairas — Capsicum and Peanut Curry", both simply delicious. I would recommend the chutneys too and if you want to avoid coconut you can settle for tomato chutney or red chilli chutney both of which are welcome deviations from the ubiquitous favourite ... coconut chutney which might put you off with its cholesterol content.
If you are a confirmed vegetarian, Southern Spice is an ideal buy. ... if you are a dyed-in-the-wool non-vegetarian you would still find the book useful as have heard the lament of this category of cooks that they find it extremely difficult to dish up a good vegetarian meal!
Southern Spice, Delicious Vegetarian Recipes from South India, Chandra Padmanabhan,
Penguin Viking, p.134, Rs.395.
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