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Gold is not old

The art of creating surface design using gold and silver thread continues to fascinate the fashion conscious.

INDIAN ART and culture has prospered over the centuries.

Various mediums of expressive art such as painting, sculpture, carving and pottery are still being used by man.

Fabric as a medium of expressive art has not remained untouched.

Gold on fabric has captured human attention since times immemorial.

Gold has been used in fabric decoration in a variety of ways.

Fabric painting, applique, brocaded weaves and most importantly `Zardozi' - the art of creating surface design using gold/ silver thread.

The fall of the Mughal Empire resulted in new activity centres of the `Zardozi' craft, one important node being Hyderabad.

This luxury craft in the lanes and by-lanes of Charminar reflect the prime surface design element for the coming winter.

By virtue of its continuation, contemporary components have exposed the `Zardoz' community to current trendy influences.

The `Zardozi' motifs see multiplicity of expression this season.

With an accent on maxi flowers, `Buta' and `Bel' designs grow larger than before. This season sees a comeback of the `Paisley'.

The `Kairi' (Paisley) in a floral set-up reflects high points in design. The geo-floral designs continue to top the charts.

The colourama comprises rosewood brown, copper red, Afro-tan, bottle green, mahogany brown, deep red accentuated with masses of gold and little proportions of silver.

This season brings to the forefront a blissful rustic face created by patination.

Over-dyed denim, lurex denim, raw silk, mulberry silk, jute silk blends with patinated effects (sandblasted, stone corroded faces) give you an ideal `Zardozi' base this winter.

Echoing the rustic look and under the banner of change and scientific advancement, the lustre of gold has been replicated in polyester fibre.

Also, gold/ silver wire created by an alloy of copper has been overtaken by lurex.

The newest invention is the polypropylene or plastic wire that has the same lustre as real gold wire or Zari.

But, still it is pure gold, gold-plated silver and oxidised wires that give you what you need this season.

With fashion infiltrating into every aspect of life, the craft of `Zardozi' spreads its wings into the accessory arcade.

Fashion accessories such as bangles, hairclips, `batuas' (purses) are all being associated with the craft of `Zardozi', thereby evoking historic splendour.

Big, broad waist belts highlighted with gold and copper embroidery, and crystal insets suggest regal opulence in a casual fashion.

Breaking away from the regular `ghagra-choli', `Zardozi' finds a base on Indo-Western casuals from spaghetti kurtas, handkerchief tops and neck scarves to A-line skirts and cigarette pants. Couture denim employs geo-floral customised `Zardozi' on bomber jackets and straight fit regular bottoms in over-dyed denim.

`Zardozi' has accommodated different ideas, motifs and designs over the ages.

This art of metal embroidery has reached out towards newer horizons.

So, wrap yourself in gold and rap right.

ANUPREET BHALLA

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