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Thursday, Oct 24, 2002

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Glow of creativity

"IT'S COOL to be Indian" is the message that comes through time and again from every collection put together by Binu Jha, who creates a place for traditional crafts in urban wardrobes.

`Golden Dust', her latest collection, which was launched recently at her new showroom at 11, Greenways Road (inside the Music College arch), ph: 4610629, echoes this dream.

Though most designers draw on inspiration to create new concepts, for Binu, fabric and the craft behind it spur her creative instincts. Thus, during a recent visit to Jaipur and Shekhavati, she was introduced to the ancient Roghan and Verek technique of printing, which is used to apply gold or silver to fabric. An engraved block is coated with a resin, which is stamped on to a fabric. The pattern is then sprinkled with gold, silver or mica, which adheres to the area with resin on it to produce a rich surface. Verek is when gold or silver leaf is applied to the adhesive.

This traditional art form has been experimented with by Binu on a number of fabric surfaces and textures such as georgette and chiffon and on chanderis, maheshwaris and kota. The colour palette is bright - turquoise blue, fuschia, lime green and orange. The fabric has also been patterned into broad tie and dye leheriya bands before it is printed.

The style is Indo-western, with subtle detailing of neck, collar, sleeves, side seam, empire line and hem line. Even traditional salwars have been given a facelift. Clever and contemporary use of gota-patti-ka-kaam gives the fabric a decorative finish.

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